Mt. Everest : George Dijmarescu tells the story of Everest 2007

Friendship Bridge, border line Tibet-Nepal

I could see Kanchenchunga, which borders Nepal with India, as a distance hump in what seemed the limits of human vision. A casual observer could easily miss it as the third highest mountain in the world from my vantage point on the summit of Mt Everest. Knowing where to look for Himalayan giants is a bonus that comes with experience and the snowy flat summit of Cho Oyu could never be mistaken for anything else. I stood there admiring how wonderful our planet is, contemplating the documentaries and news reports on global climate change, imagining where my family was and what they were doing, and marveling at the sheer number of climbers, both Sherpas and international visitors, on the mountain this year.
This year marked my ninth summit on Mt Everest; a journey I have been privileged to make every year since 1999. The rigors of Everest are second only to the first great adventure of my life when I decided to escape my communist homeland of Romania in 1985 by swimming across the Danube River to Yugoslavia, Italy, and eventually the United States. I had the good fortune to meet my wife Lapka in 2000 and we have made five summits together as well as two children.
Our second child was born this year, so Lapka was unable to travel with me from the US, but her sister Ming Kipa became my unexpected climbing partner. I was also fortunate enough this year to share my climbing experience with a group of talented Sherpas from Rolwaling Trek and their group of Japanese climbers. In the past few years I have witnessed striking contrasts between Sherpa guides who are ultimately the paid guardians, life support, and motivators on the mountain and us, the climbers, who pay to create our own climbing adventures in the protected web of the Sherpas. The ambition of the climber, especially novices, must be tempered by the Sherpa to ensure a successful climb and the members of the Japanese group with whom I encountered was about as determined as I have ever seen.

Mt Everest Calling Mostafa Mahmoud to Everest again...

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)
This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest. Base camp is located at 17,500 feet. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit).
From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall. This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.
The Icefall is in constant motion. It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below. This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing. The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.
Camp I - 5900 meters
After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet. Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.
The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.
Camp II - 6500 meters
As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.
Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)
To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.
Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)
As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.
Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet. Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone." The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.
Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.
From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time. Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.
Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)
Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.
As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

Alpine Ascents: 2007-2008 Mount Vinson Expedition Updates

January 28, 2008: Todd calling in here for the Sustrugi Five, well the flight from Patriot Hills back to Punta Arenas went smoothly, no problems we boarded around 3:00 in the morning and got to Punta Arenas around 8:00. We had time to shower, had a little nap and had a celebration brunch that was really fun, most of both teams were there, a couple of people were trying to run around and deal with their tickets but most of us had Charles deal with ours and it went smoothly. We traveled all they way to Santiago together and from there we split and went our separate ways, many people were going to LA and some of us to Miami. Everybody should be arriving home soon; by the time you read this most people should be home or just about getting home. It was a great trip, a great season down on Antarctica and we want to thank anybody who watched the cybercast this year and followed our progress up the mountain and hope that you will tune in next year or come down yourselves. (…transmission break…) signing off for the Vinson Season. Bye.
January 26, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Vern Tejas calling in for the Catamatic Crew and guess what we are excited. We had a day of some kiting and kind of lazying around as the wind slowly died down. The wind is finally low enough that they have actually called for the Ilyshin to come in. It is going to be here tomorrow morning bright and early and we are going to get on it. So guess what the Catamatic Crew is on their way home and on there way to you so please stay tuned and we will give you an update once we hit the tip of South America. Ciao for now and thanks for tuning in to all of our cybercasts it has been wonderful having you along with us and we look forward to seeing you again. Next time you will see us from the tip of South America and then hopefully in person. Night night and sweet dreams and we are on our way.
January 26, 2008: Hi Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five it is 9:35 on the 26th local time here in Antarctica and we have got the message that the Ilyshin is on its way so we are getting out of here. The Ilyshin, if all goes well, should arrive at 1:00 am and we should be arriving in Punta Arenas around 7:00 am on the 27th. We are all hoping that we can get on early flights and get home but we have had a great time, we have had a great success and have a lot (…transmission break…). We are happy to get home and we will see you next year. Bye.
January 26, 2008: Hello Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five, we are still at Patriot Hills here waiting for the wind to calm down in order for us to get the Ilyshin called in and fly out and come home to all of our friends and family. We are passing the time down here; doing some kite skiing when the wind isn’t too high, playing chess and cards, reading just generally relaxing, eating a lot and putting back on all the fat that we lost while we were on the mountain. Hopefully this won’t last too much longer and we will be able to come home. Stay tuned and we will let you know. Bye.
January 24, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones, Vern Tejas and the Catamatic Crew reporting in from Patriot Hills 2,143 feet above sea level and in the wind. It has been clear and blue skies however we have wind that is so strong that the big bird, the Ilyshin 76 cannot land here at Patriot Hills until the cross wind dies down. It is great for flying kites and great for sharing stories with other people. We had a little jam session tonight, Jim knocked out some blues, I joined in with my harmonica and we kind of rocked the tent so it has been fun but we sure would like to get home to you. So please keep your fingers crossed and keep those prayers coming for some good calm clear weather, that’s what we need now, sweet dreams and ciao for now from the ice.
January 24, 2008: This is Mark calling in with the Sustrugi Five, January 24th we are still at Patriot Hills. Fortunately there (…transmission break…) we are waiting for the Ilyushin to fly we have got crossed winds down at the strip but we are hoping to get out tomorrow. Send our love to all of our families hope to see you soon. Hope to see you soon. Over and out for Sustrugi Five.
January 24, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Catamatic Crew checking in from Patriot Hills, it is sunny and windy and it is about one in the morning. We were able to fly over after an uneventful waiting game at Vinson base camp. Thank you for your prayers and best wishes because finally the clouds lifted enough to get the Otters in and take us up fly us over to our staging area here at Patriot Hills. Hopefully in the morning it will calm down enough that we can fly the big bird, the Ilyushin which will take us back to South America and then we will be on our way back to you. Stay tuned to the further adventures of the Catamatic Crew, we are thinking of you, ciao for now.
January 24, 2008: Hey this Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five. Well waited around Vinson base camp all day waiting for the clouds to clear, we even ate dinner. Then around midnight the clouds finally cleared, the plane arrived and we are here now, all sitting at Patriot Hills waiting for the Ilyushin. We set up the tents last night in quite heavy winds, as soon as we got them set up the winds calmed down a bit, Antarctica just wanted to test us one more time. I think we passed the test so hopefully she will calm down and let the Ilyushin fly tomorrow. Stay tuned and we will let you know. Later.
January 23, 2008: Hey there friends, family and loved ones this is the Catamatic Crew calling in from Vinson base camp from 7,143 above sea level and just reporting that the weather sucks. We are trapped here on rats on a doomed ship. We are just hanging out praying for the sun, we are going to do a sun dance here in a little bit so that the light can come in and allow the Twin Otters to come in and take us away to Patriot Hills so that we can catch the Ilyushin plane back to civilization and you. Keep your fingers crossed and keep those good thoughts coming and the whole crew here is thinking of how to get the heck out of here. So please send the good vibes and we are on our way. Ciao for now.
January 23, 2008: Hello this is Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five today is the 23rd, yesterday on the 22nd we packed up our high camp and moved on down the hill. We were hoping to catch the Otter back to Patriot Hills last night but we ran out of time, didn’t quite make it over there and this morning we woke up to cloudy skies. So we are hoping that it clears up here at Vinson base camp so that we can fly on over to Patriot Hills, they are basically holding off the Ilyushin until this group of folks here at Vinson base camp can fly over and that is when we will be home. So pray for clear skies so that we can come home to you and we will report in hopefully tomorrow from Punta Arenas. See you later.
January 22, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Vern Tejas with the Catamatic Crew on Mt. Vinson calling in to tell you what we are up to. Guess what we did today, it was a very long and arduous descent but it was great to get down to the thick oxygen and the warmer temperatures of Vinson base camp. We are all safety ensconced here but the weather however is not cooperating to allow us to fly over to Patriot Hills but we are having a great time here. We are getting organized and chugging on a couple of beers, the cold one are always welcomed here but that’s always really get here in Antarctica, the cold ones. Please stay tuned for the further adventures and keep your fingers crossed that we get out soon. So ciao for now from Vinson base camp.
January 21, 2008: Hey this is Mark checking in for Sustrugi Five on January 21. The mountain was smiling on us, gave us a super blue bird day today, we had a great climb. Todd took us up the headwall which was a beautiful route. I think that everybody in the group was just awed by the spectacular scenery all around us. The relentless cold though reminded us that we are just visitors here. We all made it to the top; Craig, Steve, Dave, Todd and Mark on a beautiful day, took lots of pictures that we will bring back to everyone. Everyone here on the Team, I know that I speak for them all to say that we appreciate Todd’s wonderful guidance and the support of the Team and getting all us all there and safely back down to our high camp and of course we all very much appreciate and are grateful for the support or at least the tolerance of our families to let us come do these things. So that is Sustrugi Five checking in on January 21, we will call you tomorrow for another check in. Adios for now.
January 21, 2008: Friends, family and loved ones this is the Catamatic Crew checking in from our high camp, the weather finally mellowed out. We ended up with some pretty clear skies today, some clouds floating around but you know what the wind dropped down enough that we actually went for the summit and we made it in good time and good style. We were able to take billions of photos so remember when we get home ask us to see those photos. It was excellent we had good weather on top and were able to give rounds of congratulations and it was one of my better summits. So thank you for staying tuned and following our progress and now all we need to do is see if we can get down safely. So please send your prayers and best wishes, we are thinking of you, lots of love, ciao for now from Antarctica.
January 21, 2008: Friends, family and loved ones, bad news, bad weather. We are holed up again here at high camp, we are just keeping our fingers crossed that it is going to improve soon and hopefully you are keeping your fingers crossed as well. So we are just lying in the tents, sleeping all day other than that just telling old jokes so stand by and we will tell you what the update is for tomorrow. Ciao for now.
January 20, 2008: Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five at high camp on Mt. Vinson. We had big plans for this morning but they didn’t quite pan out, we woke up to a big lentiuclar cloud over both Mt. Shinn and near the summit of Mt. Vinson, some high winds and really cold temperatures. Instead of going for the summit we sat around in the posh, drank hot drinks and told stories all afternoon. We laughed a lot and it was good to get to know each other but we are ready to go for the summit so hopefully our luck will change here. We are going to have an early dinner tonight and try early again tomorrow. Stay tuned and you will find out what happens next.
January 19, 2008: Hello there this is Todd calling in for the Sustrugi Five from high camp on Mt. Vinson. I mentioned yesterday that there was a possibility of us going for it today but the weather wasn’t quite what we were looking for so we all stayed put here at high camp. We had a long drawn out breakfast of pancakes, fruit and bacon and sat around in the posh just telling stories. The weather is looking better now and everybody is feeling better, we are acclimatized better so I think that tomorrow is going to be our day. So wish us luck and we will be thinking about you and hopefully you will be thinking about us tomorrow.
January 19, 2008: Hey there friends, family and loved ones Vern Tejas reporting in for the Catamatic Crew, we are at high camp and we are looking forward to pushing on to the summit however today was a day of rest and relaxation. We drank, we ate, we slept and built millions and millions of red blood cells to acclimatize for the big push coming up tomorrow. Everybody is in good health and just ready to go so please stay tuned so that you can follow our ascent to the summit of Antarctica. Ciao for now, sweet dreams.
January 18, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Catamatic Crew calling in from high camp. It was a big day today up the headwall and on the fixed line and lots of weight slowly with lots of breathing we worked our way up the hill. The weather stayed fairly good for us, just an intermittent sun breaking through the clouds so it wasn’t too hot. The wind stayed low so it wasn’t too cold. We pushed up and now we are ensconced in bed with dreams of the summit in our head. Stay tuned to the further adventures of the Catamatic Crew. Ciao for now.
January 18, 2008: Hello this is Todd calling in for Team Sustrugi Five, we are at high camp on Mt. Vinson. It is a beautiful day today, it is a little chilly but we are alright. We have had some great views of Mt. Shinn, the clouds are coming in and out. We made it into camp in great form, everyone was feeling super when we got here. We had a great dinner and now we are just sitting around telling stories. Our plan is to rest tomorrow but it is so beautiful right now that we will let you know tomorrow if that plan changes. We are thinking that if the weather is as beautiful as it is this evening then we will go for it. People are tuckered right now so we won’t make that decision until morning. I know that it has been a long drawn out explanation of what’s going on but we are all doing well and happy (…transmission break…). You guys wish us luck and we will call in tomorrow and let you know what happened. Bye.
January 17, 2008: Hello there friends, family and loved ones, this is the Catamatic Crew calling in from camp 1 at about 10,143 feet above sea level. We had a great acclimatization day today, we studied how to make anchors bypasses for running the fixed line which is going to be our biggest occupation tomorrow, we practiced that both going up and going down, we were actually able to run over to the fixed line and do a little practice there. Then we went on a little hike over to the Col that looks down on the pyramid to the north west of us, that was fun little afternoon trot. Everybody seems to be feeling a lot better when we are not working with a load however with that in mind tomorrow we are going to be pretty heavy as we move up to camp 2. So stick around and pay attention and we will tell you what is happening tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather and sweet dreams. Ciao for now.
January 17, 2008: Hey this is Todd Passey’s group, we are now called the Sustrugi Five, we are calling in from Camp 1. We took a rest day today, hiked around a little bit, got to see the sights. It is getting a little bit colder but everyone is doing great. Tomorrow we are going to head up to high camp which will be about a 3,500 foot climb, we are looking at a long day but are eager to get higher on the mountain. Everyone is doing great, we all send our love to our families. Were out
January 16, 2008 : Hey there Friends, Family and Loved Ones, this is Vern Tejas reporting in from Vinson. The team has arrived and we have moved up; we’re at camp 1. We’re calling ourselves the Catamatic Crew so from now on you can stay tuned to the Catamatic Crew, which consists of Johan, David, and Jim, as well as myself, Vern. We’re doing fine. It’s been a big day, however. We pushed up with light sleds, but they felt heavy all the way. We pulled out at about 11:50 this morning and arrived up here at about 6:00. About 6 hours on the trail, made good time, however, the sun came out and baked our brains, but fortunately then cloud cover to over. No wind, smooth sailing, and pretty much just what we expected. Everyone is feeling just a little tonked, but tomorrow is going to be a rest day. Stay tuned to the adventures of the Catamatic Crew! Ciao for now.
January 16, 2008 : Hello this is Todd Passey calling in from camp 1 on Mt. Vinson. We flew in late yesterday evening; we had dinner, organized some gear, got up early this morning and started walking. We were feeling so great that we decided to pass up camp ½ and go straight to camp 1. Both Vern’s group and my group are at camp 1, safe and sound. We have got the stoves going, tents up and we are able to hunker down for the night and eat a good meal. Our plan for tomorrow, we are not sure, we might take a rest day, we might go up. So we will keep you in suspense and check in tomorrow to see if we have moved up the mountain or taken a rest day. Talk to you later.
January 15, 2008 : Hello there this is Todd calling in from Patriot Hills, our new group arrived last night around midnight and we had a great meal cooked for us by ALE. The out going group was kind enough to set up our tents for us, all except for one so it was pretty easy moving in. We woke up this morning to a beautiful day here at Patriot Hills and both of the Otters are flying today so we are on the third group in. Two groups are loading up right now on each Otter so in about three hours we should heading on out to Vinson base camp unless anything drastically changes. We are all happy to be here, healthy and we send out our love and wish us good luck on our up coming climb. We will talk to you later.
January 14, 2008 : A note from the office: The Alpine Ascents Vinson Team that was waiting in Punta Arenas to fly to Antarctica departed Chile around 6Pm local time and is on their way to Patriot Hills.
January 14, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Vern Tejas calling in for all of Alpine Ascents Vinson Trips, we are still located in Vinson base camp 7,143 feet above sea level and we are still praying for good weather. We have been occupying ourselves with a couple of little climbs going on, some sledding, some trekking around the camp as well as doing some balancing on the slack line. We have still been able to feed ourselves well and we have got plenty of fuel however were are running out of our patience, people are getting a little antsy to go as you might well expect. We want to come home to you so keep your fingers crossed and we will keep trying to get out of here. Ciao for now.
January 11, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Team on Vinson calling in from base camp, we are stuck here like rats on a sinking ship. The wind is coming up, the clouds are coming down and we can’t get out. We want you to send all of your good wishes and keep your fingers crossed for better weather so that we can get at least to Patriot Hills before the Ilyushin flies. Right now it looks like it might be several days away because the weather is ganging up on us. We understand at Patriot Hills that the wind is blowing so bad that they can’t fly the Twin Otters which are incredible planes so here we are at base camp thinking of you and wanting to come home. So blow the wind away and we also want to say clear the snow. So ciao for now at Vinson base camp.
January 8, 2008 : Hey there friends, family and loved ones this is Alpine Ascents International, standing on top of Mt. Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. The international team is standing on the summit right now, its warm, its cold and we are having a great time you can’t believe it. We are looking around, well we are kind of surrounded by a bunch of clouds but the sun is burning through. We have had a wonderful day, seven hours to the top, it has been incredible. Everyone has been breathing and everyone has been working very hard, drinking, staying on top of all their maintenance and now we are celebrating on top of Antarctica. Lots of photos, lots of hugs, lots of handshakes, wish you were here. (cheers of excitement) What a wonderful time to be here. Winslow’s Japanese Team just left the summit and Todd is coming up with the Taiwanese Team and they should be here any moment now, should be great. So we all made the summit and we are heading down, keep your fingers crossed for good weather on the way down. Love you all, ciao for now.
January 7, 2008 : Hey there friends, family and loved ones this is Alpine Ascents Vinson IV climb, calling in for all three groups, Vern Tejas here. We had a wonderful rest day, we spent most of eating, drinking, sleeping and making music; we actually had an all-star band rocking in the posh house just before dinner time, it was wonderful. The weather has turned though, instead of being clear and calm its now windy and whiteout, gusting quite often, enough that we have had to reinforce our tent pole in our posh house. Winslow got a little extracurricular activity as she went to search for another team that was lost in the whiteout. However they have now made their way back and all is well, all members are accounted for. Our team is tucking in early this evening in hopes that the weather is climbable in the morning. Keep your fingers crossed and stay tuned to the further adventures of Alpine Ascents Vinson climb. Ciao for now.
January 6, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones, Vern Tejas calling in for all three Alpine Ascents teams on Mt. Vinson right now. Team Got to Go calling in from high camp along with the Taiwanese Team and the Japanese Team. We are all up here at high camp at 4,000 meters above sea level, that’s 13, 143 feet above sea level for all of us Americans. We just wanted to say that it has been a fabulous day, it has been clear and calm and wonderfully warm, we were down to our long johns today coming up the headwall, up the fixed line. We got some great photos and everybody is in high spirits, we are tired though, quite tuckered out from moving our whole camp up here but tomorrow we are planning on taking a rest day. Stay tuned to the further adventures of climbing Mt. Vinson. Ciao for now.
January 5, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones, Vern Tejas calling in for all three Alpine Ascents teams on Mt. Vinson right now. Team Got to Go, the Taiwanese Team and the Japanese Team are all at second camp at around 10,000 feet above sea level. We all made the carry up to high camp, over a 3000 feet vertical above us today. We had reasonably good weather; it was cloudy in the morning which was perfect because it kept us from getting too hot. Then the sun came out and it is just beaming down on us right now. It is almost 2:00 in the morning and it feels really hot right now, the air temperature is probably about 10 or 20 degrees below zero but with no wind and the sun beaming down on us and the snow reflecting it, it is actually quite warm in the tents. So as soon as that sun swings behind the mountain it will drop down and we will be happy to have these negative forty degree bags. In the meantime we are all doing good, tired from a very big carry up the fixed line. We had a great day and just know that if the weather holds we will be moving up to high camp tomorrow. Ciao for now and sweet dreams from everyone on Mt. Vinson.
January 4, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Team Got to Go, Vern Tejas calling in for all three teams. We have moved up from camp 1 all the way to camp 2, we are now parked on the corner of the Windy Corner and the Death Valley. We are going to take the short cut up to the fixed line and we are looking to get fuel and food up to the high camp. In the meantime we are firmly entranced in a beautiful campsite here on a warm sunny clear day. We have moved up here to around 3,000 meters above sea level at about 10,000 feet, actually about 10,104 feet to be in the ballpark. We just wanted to tell you that we are thinking about you and everybody is good. That’s Winslow with her group of Japanese climbers and Todd with his group of Taiwanese climbers, everybody is in good spirits. We are looking forward to more good weather and climbing this mountain, so stay tuned to the further adventures of the Alpine Ascents climb of Mt. Vinson. Ciao for now.
January 3, 2008 Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Alpine Ascents Mt. Vinson climb calling in, guess what, the weather finally broke, we finally got out of Patriot Hills. Today we flew across Antarctica another 120 miles back to the Elleswood Mountain Range, to Vinson base camp. We did it in three waves and all parties are now on the glacier. We have been able to climb to our first camp at 3,700 feet above sea level and we are very happy to be here. We just had some macaroni and cheese and a little salmon on the side and everybody is now tucked in. The sun has just gone behind the ridge and the temperature is plummeting so we are burying down into our Feathered Friends bags and wishing you warm and happy evening. We are planning on moving up tomorrow if the weather holds so keep your fingers crossed for us and we will see you up at our next camp. Ciao for now from Antarctica.
January 1, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Team Got To Go calling in from Patriot Hills, Latitude 80 South and Longitude 81 West, way down south, we are about 600 miles from the South Pole. We are in a holding pattern here, we are waiting for weather to clear at Vinson Base Camp so that our pilots can fly in safely, we understand there are some clouds floating around. In the meantime, we are studying our knots, laying anchors, going over pulley theory and having a great old time enjoying the New Year, we hope that you are too. So Happy New Year to everybody and keep your fingers crossed for good weather. Ciao for now.
December 31, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in for the Trunk Monkey, everyone flew out safely yesterday, we were able to fly out from base camp and a few hours later catch the Ilyushin back to Punta Arenas. I am staying down here for another trip. We felt very fortunate to have such a great group of guys, they really did awesome, they are very hard workers and very helpful and we had a really good time on the mountain. Some folks took down the time to write down some things that they wanted to say about the trip.
This is from Michael: Things that I will always remember, hiking in the Torres del Paine Park, seeing the beauty of Antarctica for the first time, sharing an incredible Christmas Dinner on the Mountain with new friends, talking with family via SAT phone during a rest day at high camp and standing on the summit of Mt. Vinson on a wondrous day, seeing all the mountains and ice stretched all the way to the horizon.
This is from Simon: Dear friends and family, we had a wonderful time although on reflection it was an easier climb than many had imagined, we were lucky and happy to take our luck. We were glad to avoid high winds and super low temperatures on summit day. But as it was, the climb was a great challenge, Vinson possibly known as 16,064 feet offered an easy ascent for the weekend climber and a distinct atmosphere of the poles. Looking forward to seeing you all and I am sure that before long you will all be bored of this talk but the pictures and scenery here are out of this world.
This is from Martin: We had a tremendous trip up Vinson; the weather was spectacular on summit day with no wind and only minus 20 degrees celsius, which was unheard of. Our guide Winslow was bliss, very knowledgeable about the mountain and climbing in general and the best cook that I have ever had on the mountain (thanks Marin- Winslow).
I think that Serge’s write up is either MIA or maybe he was out socializing in camp and didn’t get in on that one, he had a great time as well. Todd’s group also summitted and everything went really well, Carole also made it to the summit and did a great job, had a good time and is safe and everyone is back in Punta and on there way home. We appreciate everyone tuning in, hope you have a great New Years Eve, ciao.
December 29, 2007 Hi this is Winslow with the Trunk Monkeys on Mt. Vinson. We had another great day today, we woke up to beautiful calm sunny day and descended all the way down to basecamp, as we descended we entered into some clouds so there was no flying going on today. It is actually really pretty out now and we had great views from basecamp. We had a large meal of hamburgers, salmon, fish, french fries and stir fry veggies, now everyone is in their tents going to sleep and hoping that the plans can fly tomorrow. We will keep you informed on how things are going, as long as the weather is good everyone should be able to fly back to Patriot Hills and hop a ride on the Ilyushin if it makes its way in. It is on standby, waiting for a weather window as well. Everyone is in high spirits and doing great so you we will keep you informed.
December 28, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow with Trunk Monkeys and we are at High Camp here on Mt. Vinson. We had a real amazing summit day today. The best Todd and Vern have ever seen in almost thirty times of summiting Vinson. Everyone did great. We made it up and down safely. We had great views and a very enjoyable day. Everyone is pretty tired now. We are going to rest tonight, get up early and head down to the runway and hopefully be able to fly back to Patriot Hills. We may even all the way back to Punta Arenas if the weather is nice. People should be flying back if everything works out perfectly, that’s what would happen. But we will see what the weather does. Everyone is looking forward to seeing friends and family. Thanks for tuning in! Ciao.
December 27, 2007 : Dec 27 Hello this is Michael calling from the Alpine Ascents International Vinson climb. Our team is named the Trunk Monkeys, yesterday we had a great day coming up the fixed ropes. We had about 1000 meters and moved up from our Camp I to Camp II. Camp II is our high camp and today is our rest day. We just finished building snow walls to fortify our tents – in case the winds pick up later on – it was also a good little work out for us. We are going to have a great dinner here in a couple of hours and prepare fro our summit attempt – hopefully tomorrow morning. So wish us good luck and of course you have all of our best wishes and love to our families and friends and look forward to calling back with news of success. This is Michael from Alpine Ascents Trunk Monkeys out.
December 26, 2007 : Dec 26 Hello this is Michael calling in for the Alpine Ascents Mt. Vinson team – checking in and letting you know we made it to camp I – pulling some sleds up behind us – we had a wonderful x-mas eve mail with Hamburgers, fries, wine and ice cream – we moved x-mas day . and carried to camp II ( about 1000 meters) – returned to one and had steaks, vegetables risotto and the rest of the ice cream – better eating than expecting on a climbing trip – today we will move to high camp – then a rest day and summit bid. We hope to cal in just before the summit bid. This is Michael for Alpine Ascents Vinson – out
December 22-26, 2007 : Dec 21 This is cybercast from Vinson, Serge calling in for Winslow. We had a very relaxed day at Patriot – no flights today – we were kiting and Winslow and Simon had a hike around the hill. We had a lot of chess games . I want to say Happy Birthday to my girlfriend Aneete, and say hello to whole friends and family from Antarctica – hope to talk to you soon. Dec 22 – Hi this is Winslow calling in for the Trunk Monkeys. It is a beautiful day in Patriot. Though we are not flying yet, as the plane is going to the South Pole and we have a 80% chance of flying – we did have the chance to hike around to the op of Patriot Hills. It’s about 4500 feet up there with a 2000 foot elevation gain. And a few kilometers to get to the base of the hill. A beautiful view from the top – absolutely windless and 360 degree views from the top – we can see ice fields, snowy peaks, rocky peaks we got to walk on the rock and touch the continent – that was an exciting hike – having lunch and resting -= taking in the view and now I presume the chess matches will start back up – that’s been popular along with reading and we hope to fly to Vinson base camp tomorrow – wish us luck Dec 23 – Hi this is Winslow calling for the Trunk Monkeys – I’m watching the Otter take Todd and all the climbers to Vinson Base Camp – I’ll be an hour behind the group but the weather is perfect – I can see peaks in 3 different directions from here and cirrus clouds in the distance – but I hope to get to BC soon and move to ½ camp about 4 hours climb – set up camp – it will be late night – we’re excited and check in soon. Dec 25 – This is the Trunk Monkeys calling in for the Mt. Vinson team. Everything is good at Vinson base camp – we had a great hike up to ½ camp – all feeling well and Merry x-mas to all – hopefully we will move slowly up to the next camp. Dec 26 We are at Camp I – doing great and looking to move to next camp.
Hi this is Winslow for the Trunk Monkeys – we are stuck here at Patriot Hills, Antarctica. It’s been snowing most of the day, pretty warm at minus 5 degrees Celsius, it’s usually minus 12 degrees at this time of the year. Quite a bit warmer then normal with much more snow then usual. It hasn’t been too boring as we got out and practiced fixed line ascending and descending – we watched the volleyball game and there was also a marathon – trudging through deep snow – we’re reading, kiting , eating good food and hanging out – we’ll keep our fingers crossed for tomorrow and send love to friends and family – ciao
December 19, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in. I have some good news and some more good news. We have a team name. We are the Trunk Monkeys. We also flew into Patriot hills today. We have just arrived and had dinner and received our briefing. Now we are about to set up tents as we cannot fly this evening because it’s cloudy at Vinson base camp. We’ll be staying here at Patriot Hills this evening, hoping to fly into Vinson base camp tomorrow morning. We didn’t get to fly in earlier this morning, but we did leave around 2 o’clock so we actually got to sleep in. We didn’t have to do the early wake up. Every body’s doing great. It’s actually pretty warm here. It’s only -5 degrees Celsius. We had to lay her down hiking over here from the airplane over here to Patriot Hills, which is about a 15 minute walk. We’re doing great, excited to be down here on the continent of Antarctica. We’ll give you a call tomorrow and let you know if we make it into base camp. Ciao.
December 18, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in the Vinson climbing team. Today is Tuesday and we are heading back to Punta Arenas. The other team that was ahead of us flew out today so we are hoping that the weather will hold and we will be able to fly out tomorrow morning. We had a beautiful foray up to the Torres del Paine National Park, we really lucked out with the weather and had a beautiful hiking day yesterday. We hiked five miles or so up to this beautiful glacial lake just below the Torres Mountains and had great weather and great views all day. A lot of the hike was along side a river, with lots of ups and downs, we also had to hike up a steep bolder field to get up to the lake and some people took a swim when we got up there. We had a nice lunch then we came back down to our little recurso that we are staying in. This morning we visited two different water falls and we also saw a family of fox with three babies and we were able to watch them play for a little while. It has been a great visit up here to the park and we are keeping our fingers crossed that we are going to be able to fly out tomorrow. Thanks for tuning in and we will keep you posted. Ciao.
December 17, 2007 : Hola, this is Winslow calling in for the Mount Vinson crew. We are in the Torres Paine National Park. We’re enjoying taking a few days off from being able to leave with our weather forecast as it is. They gave us a three day leave so we’re here in the park enjoying that. Yesterday we drove up and saw many of the park’s wildlife. We saw condors, guanacos, flamingos, and various other birds along the way. We stopped and had lunch in a town called Puerto Natales, which is on a large very beautiful lake. We had some great seafood there and just enjoyed the trip up. We’re staying in Refugio, which is also very nice. We’re taking a four hour hike today to a lake at the base of the Torres Paine Mountain. Everyone is doing great. We’re still working on a team name. We’ll get back to you with that. Thanks for tuning in. We’ll let you know how our arctic experience is going.
December 15, 2007 : Hello from Punta Arenas from the first Alpine Ascents crew attempting to reach the ice. Everyone made it here safely and with all baggage on board. We have a great group of climbers including; Martin Grieder (Switzerland), SimonIrish (New York), Michael Hsu (California), and Serge Massad (Ontario). The guides are Todd and Winslow Passey (Utah).
We had our logistical meeting this morning with ALE (Antarctica Logistics Expiditions), the company that carries us all down to this mystical continent. It included a very interesting slide show, instructions of do´s and don´ts (such as lying on the runway to take a photo as a plane fly´s in), and tea and biscuits to wash it down.
Unfortunately, the weather is not cooperating, and we have flight delays. There is a group ahead of us waiting to fly in as well. It has been snowing in Patriot Hills, dumping 20-30cm of fresh snow on the runway, that must be cleared before landing. This process takes 36hr. after the wind stops to remove the snow. Most groups have retreated from high camp, and are hunkering down at base camp.
With a forecaster predicting the weather for ALE this season, they have given us a 72hr. release of check in responsibilities. This means we do not have to stay in Punta Arenas, so we are arranging a trip out to Torres Del Paine National Park. We hope to get in a hike and a few good views of the towering granite peaks and the picturesque glacial lakes.
Everyone says hello to their friends and family! Go Navy! (from Michael)!! We´ll keep you posted, but it does not look like we can fly until Thursday at the earliest.

Jean-Christophe Lafaille Winter Makalu: JCL has not reported in .....

Jean-Christophe has left Makalu’s Base Camp last week but has not reported in. The hope and prayers are that his sat phone is down...
Please send your positive energy and prayers to Jean-Christophe....
Previous Update: Translation by Dr. Jean-François for EverestNews.com

The attack is finally on! Jean-Christophe has left Makalu’s BC and summit is right now his legitimate target! As weather forecasts remain very unstable, Jean-Christophe will have to adapt to a constantly changing climate, maybe waiting one or two days in high altitude camps. He plans to reach Makalu’s summit in 5 to 6 days. Moral is good and so is motivation, even tough conditions are harsh. There’s a huge difference between climbing a 8000m summit and a mountain of almost 8500m; acclimatization is longer and harder above 8000m, progression becomes a lot slower, a good window is essential (about 48 hours for Jean-Christophe on Makalu), so everything is a lot more difficult, especially when you’re on your own! Remember that Makalu is still awaiting its first successful winter climb; in the past, about a dozen of expeditions tried, without success, to climb the mighty giant in winter. Makalu is Nepal’s only 8000m mountain that remains unclimbed in winter! Jean-Christophe’s actual challenge is very ambitious! After last winter’s solo success on Shishapangma (December 2004) in alpine style, you can be sure that Jean-Christophe will do his very best to conquer the fifth highest mountain on Earth, which stands at almost 8500m!

See you soon! Katia.

Translation by Dr. Jean-François for EverestNews.com
Updates
background below
Winter 2005/2006: First Makalu’s winter ascent and solo!!!
Jean-Christophe Lafaille will realize during winter 2005/2006, his twelfth summit higher than 8000 meters with the first winter ascent solo and without oxygen to the MAKALU 8481 meters. This mountain was tried several times in winter by expeditions known as "heavy" (see appendix; "Alpine" style and "heavy" expeditions) of which one was by Reinhold Messner.
The ascent of the first 8000 in winter by Jean-Christophe, on December 11, 2004 on the "Shishapangma" (8036m) served to him as a test for the incoming project. He made up a very positive assessment of its mental and physical resistance under extreme conditions and could evaluate the aspects to be practised in its preparation. Polish, specialists in heavy winter expeditions, affirmed that it was impossible to carry out a winter ascent of a 8000 in alpine style (see appendix; The "Alpine" style and "heavy" expeditions) With the ascent of Shishapangma Jean-Christophe still showed that it was possible while being alone, without infrastructure at the base camp besides its cook!
Partners/Products: Since one year we are hard working on the preparation of this winter 2005. This preparation includes clothing and the technical material, the food, the physical training and the mental one. Beyond the physical and mental training, the word "protection" joins together the whole of our technical partners on different points thus complementary. Without them, without this confidence regarding their know-how this project would not be possible.
GORE-TEX Products. These products make possible the impossible, products which ensure an irreproachable and completely reliable protection to be calm in any circumstance. Collaboration with GORE-TEX lasts already for almost 10 years and enables Jean-Christophe to profit from new technologies, to have products made to measure to answer the extremely demanding schedule of his conditions. A product or a weakening membrane, badly conceived at 8000 meters can cost the life to Jean-Christophe. He does not have right to the error and neither the manufacturers. Collaboration that Jean-Christophe maintains with his technical partners goes beyond "sponsoring", it is above all the reciprocal confidence and the best which surround him. They form part of the key of its success.
Jean-Christophe will use for this winter Makalu 2005 Mountain Hardwear in GORE-TEX XCR products and sleeping bags as well as the tents of altitude Mountain Hardwear which currently are the best on the market. Under the request of Jean-Christophe, they carried out a tent of bivouac ultra light for this winter.
Lestra Sport and Jean-Christophe have designed an "innovative” sleeping bag for his expedition in December 2004, it will go out again with this perfect product baptized "Shishapangma" by Lestra Sports. The “dry salaisons"Black Mountain", bring quality products with essential nutritional interests in expeditions; Jean-Christophe regularly consumes them throughout the year and during his expeditions. Collaboration with LPG Systems which develops and manufactures machines which enable to work balance, coordination, the muscular reinforcement, recovery allow to refine this demanding preparation.
The Team: It is made up, of course, by the partners of Jean-Christophe but also by:
Katia Lafaille: wife and manager of Jean-Christophe.
Yan Giezendanner: Router weather
René Même: fitness trainer.
Professionalism: Since four years, Jean-Christophe has still reached a stage in his course, the ascents which he has carried out for all these years make that he has acquired maturity and experience while remaining passionate by what he does. The projects which he considers today join together these elements and require an extremely high preparation. Absolutely nothing is left randomly, material, alimentation, physique, mental, relax, each element of his preparation is thoroughly calculated, studied to reach the "perfection". It is something new in the world of the mountain, extremely enriching and interesting. Passion, professionalism, assiduity, perseverance, the patience of Jean-Christophe and those around him make possible his ascents very committed on the summits of more than 8000 meters.
Why?: The complete autonomy, as Jean-Christophe likes it; to well manage its strategy of ascent under conditions of extreme cold, its tiredness, and its mental force. He does not wish to climb the summits of more than 8000 meters only to collect them, he gives a great importance to the way in which he will climb this or that mountain. He likes the difficulty, engagement, to explore the universe of the high altitude. He has never used an artificial oxygen contribution in expedition (which lowers the person of approximately 1000m which means to say that one person who reaches 8000 m with oxygen is in fact physiologically at 7000m... in sporting terms it is not the same...) because what interests him is precisely to climb there by himself. If he did not have the physiological capacity to climb the 8000, he would simply climb less high tops.
Apart from his potential, the characteristic which defines Jean-Christophe it is his very futuristic vision of the alpinism... In 1996, he connects in less than four days Gasherbrum I and II (8068m and 8035m), in 2002 with the ascent of Annapurna he shows that it is possible to traverse fifteen kilometres on an edge during four days in the "thin air" between 7200 and 8000 meters, in December 2004, he carries out the first winter ascent of Shishapangma solo and in alpine style. The barriers which he makes fall make possible to imagine tomorrow’s ascents…
Makalu 8481m: Situation: Mahalangur Himal, Nepal oriental.27°53’ lat.N / 87°05’ long.E
Altitude: 8481m.
First Summit : May 15 1955 via north west edge by Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray (France).
Base Camp Altitude: 5400m.
Timing (forecast):
27 October to 27 November 2005: end of the preparation abroad
01.12.05: Nepal departure
30 January 2006: back to France.
Expedition follow-up: Katia Lafaille, in liaison regularly with Jean-Christophe, will put on line on their site www.jclafaille.com information in real time about Jean-Christophe’s progression. The largest site on mountain will translate into English and will put on line the official communiqués that Katia will send to them on www.everestnews.com (American site)
Katia Lafaille.
APPENDIX: WINTER in Himalaya:
The major problem in the ascent of summits of more than 8000 meters in winter is mainly related to the cold large mixture + altitude. In a very simplistic way here is in two lines what happens: when one is in a state of hypoxia (lack of oxygen) blood thickens, blood circulation slow down, the risks of frostbite are then high in winter with temperatures even colder and shorter days this process is reinforced.
Wind is also very problematic because the solid mass undergoes almost every day the famous "Jet Stream" whose airliners use for fly which blow on average of 160/180km/h. When he climbed the Shishapangma, the wind at the top was 70 km/h. The temperature this day at the top was of -35°, by adding the speed of the wind (wind chill) it reached approximately - 60 °.
« Alpine » style and « Heavy » expeditions: The difference between the alpine style and heavy expeditions are as follows: Heavy expeditions install progressively with their progression on the mountain fixed cords on which the mountaineers rise with a handle car-blocking (called the jumar) during the rise and the descent like self-insurance. Besides the base camp, several other camps are installed on the mountain; an advanced base camp, a camp 1, camp 2, camp 3 and even sometimes a camp 4. This style of ascent does not require technical qualities of climbing and requires much material on the mountain.
The alpine style is at the opposite and requires technical qualities of climber because there are not fixed cords installed (except for the delicate passage of a crack for example or a short portion and very technique of a passage on the route) thus not safety as well on the rise as in the descent. In addition, there is possibly an advanced base camp but then there are not several camps installed on the mountain. The same camp moves with the climber and follows him according to his acclimatization. This technique leaves the mountain "clean" but is very committed, the most committed one in the Himalayas

To the Summit and Beyond

Sharon Wood is the first North American woman to climb Mount Everest and the only woman to do so by a new route and without Sherpa assistance.

Sharon teaches, entertains and inspires with her story of climbing Mount Everest by a new and more difficult route, with fewer resources and, in good style. Good style in the world of elite high altitude climbing is all about accomplishing more with less.

Her story is a testimonial to rendering the impossible possible through exemplary teamwork, leadership and personal spirit. It is a story about ordinary people achieving extraordinary results. Sharon effectively conveys both the individual and the team perspective by stressing the importance of her own passion and dreams while fulfilling a role as a member of a team. A team committed to levering every component of their strategy to realize a shared vision.

Sharon's style is personal and moving. She uses powerful anecdotes and vivid analogies to convey the elements that parallel the challenges of striving individuals and organizations. Sharon's authentic, humorous and honest approach evokes listeners to consider the value of their own stories and reflect upon the resources and opportunities that foster personal and team success.

"Everest – To the Summit and Beyond" is more than just an adventure story, it is a timeless, universal story about human struggle and triumph over adversity. For anyone wanting to be more effective in his or her work or life, Sharon's story is a powerful inspiration.

Sharon's story illustrates these concepts and more:
Committing to a shared vision
Accomplishing more with less
Thriving through change and adversity
Looking beyond the boundaries of expertise for creative solutions
Maintaining the momentum
Believing "Better is possible"
Firing on all cylinders
Identifying the real obstacles
Expanding horizons of perceived opportunities and resources
Embracing the value of diversity and conflict
Being and living our potential
Performing over conforming
Recognizing, giving and taking support
Valuing power of passion and curiosity
Embracing leadership
Stunning PowerPoint images and video taken live from the highest mountain on Earth support her presentation.
Take a Risk, Live Life!
Risk is a factor tied to much of what we do. Risk is often the deterrent to acting on what we need to do to live a more fulfilling life. Sharon espouses the value of selective risk taking as a means to experiencing our greater potential. Anticipation of loss, fear and anxiety are feelings most often associated with risk. Sharon conveys the strategies and essential components she has used to push through her fears and barriers. She speaks to preparation, a clear vision, intention and desire as being essential components to minimizing and calculating a risk. Most importantly she speaks to rewards of being a risk taker and winning in life.
Founder and Chairperson of a private school in her community, President of her own company Adventure Dynamics Inc, first North American woman to summit Mount Everest, a professional mountaineer and a mother of two sons; Sharon is leading a life rich with risk, challenge and change.
Through humor, passion and self-disclosure Sharon describes the elements of risk in a variety of endeavors. She draws from her personal experience in public speaking, implementing community and team projects, and climbing the highest mountain in the world to explore the balance of losses and gains in risk taking.
TESTIMONIALS
I feared these people were too "sophisticated" to respond to a motivational speaker. I couldn¹t have been more wrong. Your story, and the slides and the video that went with it were fascinating. You clearly understood the problems we faced, and tailored your presentation to our needs. Your low-key style set off the message like black velvet behind diamonds.
Sharon your message regarding team concepts, interdependencies, and maximizing one¹s potential was directly on point. You were extremely effective in applying your own experiences in high altitude climbing to our business setting. The extra time you spent with us to get a deeper understanding of our business was clear to the audience and strengthened your impact. Moreover, your engaging and relaxed communication style enabled our staff to relate sell to you and with you. Simply put, you clearly exceeded our expectations and our expectations were quite high.
Everyone in the audience unanimously agreed that your presentation was fantastic. Your message which was delivered with such honesty, really struck home for the audience ­ while leaving the event they felt energized, entertained and ready to recognize the many opportunities in front of them. I am convinced that the success of this session was not only in your actual message and delivery, but in the hard preparation work and the time you dedicated in prep discussions with myself and other P&G leaders beforehand.
Most important they said that they could relate to your accomplishment and story in a way that they had not experienced with other speakers. Not that they thought they could climb Everest, but that through personal commitment and teamwork they could take their ordinary skills and develop them in a way that would allow them to deliver more both personally and professionally than had thought possible.
Sharon Wood Spoke to over five hundred RE/MAX sales people at a sales rally. I have helped organize these events for seven years, and she had the greatest positive response we've have ever had. She left the audience feeling ordinary people can do extraordinary things, and they were as charged up as if they had gone up Everest themselves.
The standing ovation we gave you was of course partly for your Everest achievement. But I think it was more because you created for the Project Management audience a context by which you reflected the conference leadership theme, and you drew in everyone. I have received so many accolades on your behalf as a result.
Somehow Sharon magically moves and inspires her audience at an emotional level, while at the same time delivering practical experience in teambuilding, project management and role modeling. She also has a knack, rarely shown in speakers, of showing her humanity.
After hearing you recount, with great humility I might add, the significant physical and mental challenges embedded in your climb to the summit, it really put into perspective the business issues we face. Your concepts of "Good Style", "Better is Possible" and "Thriving versus Surviving" have already found their way into the vernacular of our company. Your story is so rich that I expect we will be referencing it in internal conversations for some time to come.

The Second Hungarian expedition on Everest Autumn 2001

The team: László Mécs, Zsolt Erõss, Koppány Keresztesi, Ágnes Bradács, Júlia Nedeczky, Huba Markos, Zoltán Kertész (climbers) and Sándor Gárdos, the doctor.
The route: the North normal route, without oxygen and Sherpas.
Camps: BC and ABC, camp 1 at 7000 and camp 2 at 7800
Update 10/1/2001: There are two Hungarian expeditions on the Everest these days. In addition to the Hungarian Explorer team (Everest Kangshung Face Expedition), there is a Hungarian expedition attempting the normal route on the North side of Everest. This is the expedition Brian McCullough talked about last week on EverestNews.com.
This second Hungarian expedition have already reached their camp 2 at 7800, and returned to the ABC.
Update 10/18/2001: Summit push: the first attempt (in the first week of October) was unsuccessful due to the wrong weather. The second (and last) one started last weekend, they have one week to success. They form three teams. The members of the main team with the highest chance to succeed are: Zsolt, Laci and Koppány. The others will help them carrying gear for camp 3 (this means a single tent planned to build at 8300) and other necessary stuff. Only the two Hungarian teams are left on the Everest these days. Source Andras Vaczi
Update 10/24/2001: Sándor Gárdos, doc [doctor] of the HMMEE team, was dead after the team gave up the last summit push. During the descent with Koppány Keresztesi from camp 2 (at 7800), he made hand-signs and turned back to the camp. The wind blew at 150 kmh, so they couldn't talk to each other, so Koppány didn't know why Sándor turned back. And he didn't arrive to camp 1... The next day Huba Markos and Zsolt Erőss started looking for him. They've found his backpack and ski-sticks at around 7500, then his body laying on a glacier at 6400. He was buried there, at the foot of the Everest. Source: Andras Vaczi
Update 11/6/2001: According to an e-mail from Zsolt Erőss, a member of HMMEE team, we know a bit more about the accident of Sándor Gárdos. Zsolt and Huba Markos were those who started to look for the doctor. They found his backpack, ski-stick and axe only at a height of about 7800 meters. The next day, they found himself laying on the glacier, and a part of a new tent (with no poles). These facts suggest that the doc wanted to set up a tent up there, to stay in it until the weather got better, and "the roof of the tent was blown off the mountain (unfortunately, together with the doc) by the wind."
Koppány Keresztesi, the mate of the doc during the descent, got severe frost-injuries on his right hand, so they returned to Kathmandu as fast as it was possible. There a physician saw him. This is this in Hungarian, since he graduated in Hungary. Koppány is now in Budapest, the others will arrive back on 8 November. András

Everest hero Hillary laid to rest

New Zealand has bid a final farewell to Sir Edmund Hillary, the first climber to stand atop Mount Everest, at his state funeral in Auckland.
Dignitaries from around the world attended the service in St Mary's Church, which was beamed around the world via satellite links.
New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark and Norbu Tenzing Norgay, the son of his climbing partner, led the tributes.
Sir Edmund, 88, died of a heart attack in Auckland on 11 January.
The prime minister accompanied the mountaineer's widow, Lady June Hillary, into Tuesday's church service.
Addressing the congregation, Ms Clark said: "Sir Ed described himself as a person of modest abilities. In reality he was a colossus, he was our hero.
"How privileged we were to have that living legend with us for 88 years."
National hero
Grey-bearded mountaineers mingled with saffron-robed Buddhist monks and Nepali Sherpas at the service to bid farewell to the mountaineer.

We always feared where dad was going to take us in the upcoming school holidays
Peter HillarySon
"While we mourn his loss, his spirit will forever live and protect the great mountain and the people he loved so much," said Norbu Tenzing Norgay.
"When Sherpas heard the news of his death, their grief spiralled into mourning only comparable to the loss of a parent."
Sir Edmund's son, Peter, said adventure "was compulsory" in the Hillary family.
"We always feared where dad was going to take us in the upcoming school holidays. That shared adventure was one of the greatest gifts he gave to his family and friends."
Peter Hillary went on to become a mountaineer himself.
Dignitaries from Nepal, the US, Australia, Russia and India were among about 500 invited guests.
Around the country, the event was shown on large outdoor screens set up in several main centres, allowing tens of thousands of New Zealanders to pay their last respects.
A special television satellite link was also set up to Nepal and Antarctica.
After conquering Everest, Sir Edmund led several expeditions to the South Pole and helped ethnic Sherpas of Nepal's Khumbu region through his Himalayan Trust.
'Royal snub'
On Monday hundreds of people filed past his casket next door at the Holy Trinity Cathedral, where he lay in state.
The legendary adventurer was commemorated with a Maori Haka dance following the funeral.
The cortege travelled through Auckland city streets before Sir Edmund was cremated at a private service.

Tributes have been paid to the climber all around the world
The BBC's Nick Bryant in Auckland says some New Zealanders saw the absence of any member of Britain's royal family as a snub to their national hero.
The New Zealand Herald, the country's biggest-selling newspaper, broke the news last week under the headline: "Royal family snubs Sir Ed."
Governor-General Anand Satyanand attended the funeral service representing Queen Elizabeth II - who is also New Zealand's head of state.
Sir Edmund and Tenzing Norgay's ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953 ushered in the Elizabethan age, coming as the achievement did just days before the monarch's coronation. The Queen knighted Sir Edmund on his return.
But New Zealand's Prime Minister defended the British royals saying that the Queen, at 81 years old, was not in a position to travel at short notice.
The Queen has invited members of Sir Edmund's family to attend a memorial service in April at her private chapel in Windsor Castle.

Sir Ed Hillary : From Ang Tshering Sherpa

Dear Friends: It is with a heavy heart that I wish you Namaste and offer my Greetings from Nepal …..
Sir Ed Hillary has begun his journey to the final summit of Life - a summit that we all would like to reach, but very few of us are able.
Sir Ed Hillary will always live in the hearts and memories of the thousands of Sherpas who know him. As a tribute I wish to share with you some parts of Sir Ed Hillary's life that has touched me and my family personally.
In the early 1960s Sir Ed Hillary was on one of his many journeys accompanied by his Sherpa friends. While they were crossing a mountain pass, Sir Ed Hillary is said to have asked one of the Sherpas if there was anything he could do for the Sherpa people, what would it be? The Sherpa friend immediately replied, "Burra Sahib" (Big Sahib), our children have eyes but they are blind and can not see. We want you to open their eyes by building a school.
In 1961 Sir Ed Hillary built the first school in Khumjung village with his own hands.
In 1964, he built Lukla airport opening a gate way to the Khumbu and to Everest and letting, not only the world know about the Sherpa people and their culture, but also showing the Sherpa people that there was a much bigger world beyond the Himalaya.
In 1966 he built the Khunde Hospital to provide free health services to all Nepalese.
And the list could go on. But what I have said here touches my family - the Sherpa who asked for a school to be built was my father Konchok Chumbi. My father accompanied Sir Ed Hillary when the Yeti scalp from Khumjung Gompa was taken around the world.
I was one of the first students to get admitted into Khumjung School and graduate from there. If not for the vision of one man who stood above all - I would perhaps now be a man bowed by age and still carrying loads in my beloved Khumbu.
By coincidence, my son, Dawa Steven, was in Dingboche when he heard the news of Sir Ed Hillary's passing away. He rushed down to Khumjung in one day and was fortunate to be able to share in the prayers offered by the people in Khumjung Gompa. In the attached WinZip file I am sharing a few of the images, honoring the memory of a great human being.
My son, Dawa Steven, is dedicating his Eco Everest Expedition 2008 to the Vision of Sir Ed Hillary for the Khumbu and her people.
As President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) I have proposed naming one Himalayan peak and Lukla airport after Sir Ed Hillary. I have also proposed that the Nepal Government initiate an International level award named after Sir Ed Hillary.
While I am deeply saddened, I feel joy that a soul like Sir Ed Hillary walked among us.
Until the next time we meet -
Sincerely, Ang Tshering

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Alpine Ascents: 2007-2008 Mount Vinson Expedition : Vern reports in again

January 16, 2008 : Hey there Friends, Family and Loved Ones, this is Vern Tejas reporting in from Vinson. The team has arrived and we have moved up; we’re at camp 1. We’re calling ourselves the Catamatic Crew so from now on you can stay tuned to the Catamatic Crew, which consists of Johan, David, and Jim, as well as myself, Vern. We’re doing fine. It’s been a big day, however. We pushed up with light sleds, but they felt heavy all the way. We pulled out at about 11:50 this morning and arrived up here at about 6:00. About 6 hours on the trail, made good time, however, the sun came out and baked our brains, but fortunately then cloud cover to over. No wind, smooth sailing, and pretty much just what we expected. Everyone is feeling just a little tonked, but tomorrow is going to be a rest day. Stay tuned to the adventures of the Catamatic Crew! Ciao for now.
January 16, 2008 : Hello this is Todd Passey calling in from camp 1 on Mt. Vinson. We flew in late yesterday evening; we had dinner, organized some gear, got up early this morning and started walking. We were feeling so great that we decided to pass up camp ½ and go straight to camp 1. Both Vern’s group and my group are at camp 1, safe and sound. We have got the stoves going, tents up and we are able to hunker down for the night and eat a good meal. Our plan for tomorrow, we are not sure, we might take a rest day, we might go up. So we will keep you in suspense and check in tomorrow to see if we have moved up the mountain or taken a rest day. Talk to you later.
January 15, 2008 : Hello there this is Todd calling in from Patriot Hills, our new group arrived last night around midnight and we had a great meal cooked for us by ALE. The out going group was kind enough to set up our tents for us, all except for one so it was pretty easy moving in. We woke up this morning to a beautiful day here at Patriot Hills and both of the Otters are flying today so we are on the third group in. Two groups are loading up right now on each Otter so in about three hours we should heading on out to Vinson base camp unless anything drastically changes. We are all happy to be here, healthy and we send out our love and wish us good luck on our up coming climb. We will talk to you later.
January 14, 2008 : A note from the office: The Alpine Ascents Vinson Team that was waiting in Punta Arenas to fly to Antarctica departed Chile around 6Pm local time and is on their way to Patriot Hills.
January 14, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Vern Tejas calling in for all of Alpine Ascents Vinson Trips, we are still located in Vinson base camp 7,143 feet above sea level and we are still praying for good weather. We have been occupying ourselves with a couple of little climbs going on, some sledding, some trekking around the camp as well as doing some balancing on the slack line. We have still been able to feed ourselves well and we have got plenty of fuel however were are running out of our patience, people are getting a little antsy to go as you might well expect. We want to come home to you so keep your fingers crossed and we will keep trying to get out of here. Ciao for now.
January 11, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Team on Vinson calling in from base camp, we are stuck here like rats on a sinking ship. The wind is coming up, the clouds are coming down and we can’t get out. We want you to send all of your good wishes and keep your fingers crossed for better weather so that we can get at least to Patriot Hills before the Ilyushin flies. Right now it looks like it might be several days away because the weather is ganging up on us. We understand at Patriot Hills that the wind is blowing so bad that they can’t fly the Twin Otters which are incredible planes so here we are at base camp thinking of you and wanting to come home. So blow the wind away and we also want to say clear the snow. So ciao for now at Vinson base camp.
January 8, 2008 : Hey there friends, family and loved ones this is Alpine Ascents International, standing on top of Mt. Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. The international team is standing on the summit right now, its warm, its cold and we are having a great time you can’t believe it. We are looking around, well we are kind of surrounded by a bunch of clouds but the sun is burning through. We have had a wonderful day, seven hours to the top, it has been incredible. Everyone has been breathing and everyone has been working very hard, drinking, staying on top of all their maintenance and now we are celebrating on top of Antarctica. Lots of photos, lots of hugs, lots of handshakes, wish you were here. (cheers of excitement) What a wonderful time to be here. Winslow’s Japanese Team just left the summit and Todd is coming up with the Taiwanese Team and they should be here any moment now, should be great. So we all made the summit and we are heading down, keep your fingers crossed for good weather on the way down. Love you all, ciao for now.
January 7, 2008 : Hey there friends, family and loved ones this is Alpine Ascents Vinson IV climb, calling in for all three groups, Vern Tejas here. We had a wonderful rest day, we spent most of eating, drinking, sleeping and making music; we actually had an all-star band rocking in the posh house just before dinner time, it was wonderful. The weather has turned though, instead of being clear and calm its now windy and whiteout, gusting quite often, enough that we have had to reinforce our tent pole in our posh house. Winslow got a little extracurricular activity as she went to search for another team that was lost in the whiteout. However they have now made their way back and all is well, all members are accounted for. Our team is tucking in early this evening in hopes that the weather is climbable in the morning. Keep your fingers crossed and stay tuned to the further adventures of Alpine Ascents Vinson climb. Ciao for now.
January 6, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones, Vern Tejas calling in for all three Alpine Ascents teams on Mt. Vinson right now. Team Got to Go calling in from high camp along with the Taiwanese Team and the Japanese Team. We are all up here at high camp at 4,000 meters above sea level, that’s 13, 143 feet above sea level for all of us Americans. We just wanted to say that it has been a fabulous day, it has been clear and calm and wonderfully warm, we were down to our long johns today coming up the headwall, up the fixed line. We got some great photos and everybody is in high spirits, we are tired though, quite tuckered out from moving our whole camp up here but tomorrow we are planning on taking a rest day. Stay tuned to the further adventures of climbing Mt. Vinson. Ciao for now.
January 5, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones, Vern Tejas calling in for all three Alpine Ascents teams on Mt. Vinson right now. Team Got to Go, the Taiwanese Team and the Japanese Team are all at second camp at around 10,000 feet above sea level. We all made the carry up to high camp, over a 3000 feet vertical above us today. We had reasonably good weather; it was cloudy in the morning which was perfect because it kept us from getting too hot. Then the sun came out and it is just beaming down on us right now. It is almost 2:00 in the morning and it feels really hot right now, the air temperature is probably about 10 or 20 degrees below zero but with no wind and the sun beaming down on us and the snow reflecting it, it is actually quite warm in the tents. So as soon as that sun swings behind the mountain it will drop down and we will be happy to have these negative forty degree bags. In the meantime we are all doing good, tired from a very big carry up the fixed line. We had a great day and just know that if the weather holds we will be moving up to high camp tomorrow. Ciao for now and sweet dreams from everyone on Mt. Vinson.
January 4, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Team Got to Go, Vern Tejas calling in for all three teams. We have moved up from camp 1 all the way to camp 2, we are now parked on the corner of the Windy Corner and the Death Valley. We are going to take the short cut up to the fixed line and we are looking to get fuel and food up to the high camp. In the meantime we are firmly entranced in a beautiful campsite here on a warm sunny clear day. We have moved up here to around 3,000 meters above sea level at about 10,000 feet, actually about 10,104 feet to be in the ballpark. We just wanted to tell you that we are thinking about you and everybody is good. That’s Winslow with her group of Japanese climbers and Todd with his group of Taiwanese climbers, everybody is in good spirits. We are looking forward to more good weather and climbing this mountain, so stay tuned to the further adventures of the Alpine Ascents climb of Mt. Vinson. Ciao for now.
January 3, 2008 Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is the Alpine Ascents Mt. Vinson climb calling in, guess what, the weather finally broke, we finally got out of Patriot Hills. Today we flew across Antarctica another 120 miles back to the Elleswood Mountain Range, to Vinson base camp. We did it in three waves and all parties are now on the glacier. We have been able to climb to our first camp at 3,700 feet above sea level and we are very happy to be here. We just had some macaroni and cheese and a little salmon on the side and everybody is now tucked in. The sun has just gone behind the ridge and the temperature is plummeting so we are burying down into our Feathered Friends bags and wishing you warm and happy evening. We are planning on moving up tomorrow if the weather holds so keep your fingers crossed for us and we will see you up at our next camp. Ciao for now from Antarctica.
January 1, 2008 : Hello there friends, family and loved ones this is Team Got To Go calling in from Patriot Hills, Latitude 80 South and Longitude 81 West, way down south, we are about 600 miles from the South Pole. We are in a holding pattern here, we are waiting for weather to clear at Vinson Base Camp so that our pilots can fly in safely, we understand there are some clouds floating around. In the meantime, we are studying our knots, laying anchors, going over pulley theory and having a great old time enjoying the New Year, we hope that you are too. So Happy New Year to everybody and keep your fingers crossed for good weather. Ciao for now.
December 31, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in for the Trunk Monkey, everyone flew out safely yesterday, we were able to fly out from base camp and a few hours later catch the Ilyushin back to Punta Arenas. I am staying down here for another trip. We felt very fortunate to have such a great group of guys, they really did awesome, they are very hard workers and very helpful and we had a really good time on the mountain. Some folks took down the time to write down some things that they wanted to say about the trip.
This is from Michael: Things that I will always remember, hiking in the Torres del Paine Park, seeing the beauty of Antarctica for the first time, sharing an incredible Christmas Dinner on the Mountain with new friends, talking with family via SAT phone during a rest day at high camp and standing on the summit of Mt. Vinson on a wondrous day, seeing all the mountains and ice stretched all the way to the horizon.
This is from Simon: Dear friends and family, we had a wonderful time although on reflection it was an easier climb than many had imagined, we were lucky and happy to take our luck. We were glad to avoid high winds and super low temperatures on summit day. But as it was, the climb was a great challenge, Vinson possibly known as 16,064 feet offered an easy ascent for the weekend climber and a distinct atmosphere of the poles. Looking forward to seeing you all and I am sure that before long you will all be bored of this talk but the pictures and scenery here are out of this world.
This is from Martin: We had a tremendous trip up Vinson; the weather was spectacular on summit day with no wind and only minus 20 degrees celsius, which was unheard of. Our guide Winslow was bliss, very knowledgeable about the mountain and climbing in general and the best cook that I have ever had on the mountain (thanks Marin- Winslow).
I think that Serge’s write up is either MIA or maybe he was out socializing in camp and didn’t get in on that one, he had a great time as well. Todd’s group also summitted and everything went really well, Carole also made it to the summit and did a great job, had a good time and is safe and everyone is back in Punta and on there way home. We appreciate everyone tuning in, hope you have a great New Years Eve, ciao.
December 29, 2007 Hi this is Winslow with the Trunk Monkeys on Mt. Vinson. We had another great day today, we woke up to beautiful calm sunny day and descended all the way down to basecamp, as we descended we entered into some clouds so there was no flying going on today. It is actually really pretty out now and we had great views from basecamp. We had a large meal of hamburgers, salmon, fish, french fries and stir fry veggies, now everyone is in their tents going to sleep and hoping that the plans can fly tomorrow. We will keep you informed on how things are going, as long as the weather is good everyone should be able to fly back to Patriot Hills and hop a ride on the Ilyushin if it makes its way in. It is on standby, waiting for a weather window as well. Everyone is in high spirits and doing great so you we will keep you informed.
December 28, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow with Trunk Monkeys and we are at High Camp here on Mt. Vinson. We had a real amazing summit day today. The best Todd and Vern have ever seen in almost thirty times of summiting Vinson. Everyone did great. We made it up and down safely. We had great views and a very enjoyable day. Everyone is pretty tired now. We are going to rest tonight, get up early and head down to the runway and hopefully be able to fly back to Patriot Hills. We may even all the way back to Punta Arenas if the weather is nice. People should be flying back if everything works out perfectly, that’s what would happen. But we will see what the weather does. Everyone is looking forward to seeing friends and family. Thanks for tuning in! Ciao.
December 27, 2007 : Dec 27 Hello this is Michael calling from the Alpine Ascents International Vinson climb. Our team is named the Trunk Monkeys, yesterday we had a great day coming up the fixed ropes. We had about 1000 meters and moved up from our Camp I to Camp II. Camp II is our high camp and today is our rest day. We just finished building snow walls to fortify our tents – in case the winds pick up later on – it was also a good little work out for us. We are going to have a great dinner here in a couple of hours and prepare fro our summit attempt – hopefully tomorrow morning. So wish us good luck and of course you have all of our best wishes and love to our families and friends and look forward to calling back with news of success. This is Michael from Alpine Ascents Trunk Monkeys out.
December 26, 2007 : Dec 26 Hello this is Michael calling in for the Alpine Ascents Mt. Vinson team – checking in and letting you know we made it to camp I – pulling some sleds up behind us – we had a wonderful x-mas eve mail with Hamburgers, fries, wine and ice cream – we moved x-mas day . and carried to camp II ( about 1000 meters) – returned to one and had steaks, vegetables risotto and the rest of the ice cream – better eating than expecting on a climbing trip – today we will move to high camp – then a rest day and summit bid. We hope to cal in just before the summit bid. This is Michael for Alpine Ascents Vinson – out
December 22-26, 2007 : Dec 21 This is cybercast from Vinson, Serge calling in for Winslow. We had a very relaxed day at Patriot – no flights today – we were kiting and Winslow and Simon had a hike around the hill. We had a lot of chess games . I want to say Happy Birthday to my girlfriend Aneete, and say hello to whole friends and family from Antarctica – hope to talk to you soon. Dec 22 – Hi this is Winslow calling in for the Trunk Monkeys. It is a beautiful day in Patriot. Though we are not flying yet, as the plane is going to the South Pole and we have a 80% chance of flying – we did have the chance to hike around to the op of Patriot Hills. It’s about 4500 feet up there with a 2000 foot elevation gain. And a few kilometers to get to the base of the hill. A beautiful view from the top – absolutely windless and 360 degree views from the top – we can see ice fields, snowy peaks, rocky peaks we got to walk on the rock and touch the continent – that was an exciting hike – having lunch and resting -= taking in the view and now I presume the chess matches will start back up – that’s been popular along with reading and we hope to fly to Vinson base camp tomorrow – wish us luck Dec 23 – Hi this is Winslow calling for the Trunk Monkeys – I’m watching the Otter take Todd and all the climbers to Vinson Base Camp – I’ll be an hour behind the group but the weather is perfect – I can see peaks in 3 different directions from here and cirrus clouds in the distance – but I hope to get to BC soon and move to ½ camp about 4 hours climb – set up camp – it will be late night – we’re excited and check in soon. Dec 25 – This is the Trunk Monkeys calling in for the Mt. Vinson team. Everything is good at Vinson base camp – we had a great hike up to ½ camp – all feeling well and Merry x-mas to all – hopefully we will move slowly up to the next camp. Dec 26 We are at Camp I – doing great and looking to move to next camp.
Hi this is Winslow for the Trunk Monkeys – we are stuck here at Patriot Hills, Antarctica. It’s been snowing most of the day, pretty warm at minus 5 degrees Celsius, it’s usually minus 12 degrees at this time of the year. Quite a bit warmer then normal with much more snow then usual. It hasn’t been too boring as we got out and practiced fixed line ascending and descending – we watched the volleyball game and there was also a marathon – trudging through deep snow – we’re reading, kiting , eating good food and hanging out – we’ll keep our fingers crossed for tomorrow and send love to friends and family – ciao
December 19, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in. I have some good news and some more good news. We have a team name. We are the Trunk Monkeys. We also flew into Patriot hills today. We have just arrived and had dinner and received our briefing. Now we are about to set up tents as we cannot fly this evening because it’s cloudy at Vinson base camp. We’ll be staying here at Patriot Hills this evening, hoping to fly into Vinson base camp tomorrow morning. We didn’t get to fly in earlier this morning, but we did leave around 2 o’clock so we actually got to sleep in. We didn’t have to do the early wake up. Every body’s doing great. It’s actually pretty warm here. It’s only -5 degrees Celsius. We had to lay her down hiking over here from the airplane over here to Patriot Hills, which is about a 15 minute walk. We’re doing great, excited to be down here on the continent of Antarctica. We’ll give you a call tomorrow and let you know if we make it into base camp. Ciao.
December 18, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in the Vinson climbing team. Today is Tuesday and we are heading back to Punta Arenas. The other team that was ahead of us flew out today so we are hoping that the weather will hold and we will be able to fly out tomorrow morning. We had a beautiful foray up to the Torres del Paine National Park, we really lucked out with the weather and had a beautiful hiking day yesterday. We hiked five miles or so up to this beautiful glacial lake just below the Torres Mountains and had great weather and great views all day. A lot of the hike was along side a river, with lots of ups and downs, we also had to hike up a steep bolder field to get up to the lake and some people took a swim when we got up there. We had a nice lunch then we came back down to our little recurso that we are staying in. This morning we visited two different water falls and we also saw a family of fox with three babies and we were able to watch them play for a little while. It has been a great visit up here to the park and we are keeping our fingers crossed that we are going to be able to fly out tomorrow. Thanks for tuning in and we will keep you posted. Ciao.
December 17, 2007 : Hola, this is Winslow calling in for the Mount Vinson crew. We are in the Torres Paine National Park. We’re enjoying taking a few days off from being able to leave with our weather forecast as it is. They gave us a three day leave so we’re here in the park enjoying that. Yesterday we drove up and saw many of the park’s wildlife. We saw condors, guanacos, flamingos, and various other birds along the way. We stopped and had lunch in a town called Puerto Natales, which is on a large very beautiful lake. We had some great seafood there and just enjoyed the trip up. We’re staying in Refugio, which is also very nice. We’re taking a four hour hike today to a lake at the base of the Torres Paine Mountain. Everyone is doing great. We’re still working on a team name. We’ll get back to you with that. Thanks for tuning in. We’ll let you know how our arctic experience is going.
December 15, 2007 : Hello from Punta Arenas from the first Alpine Ascents crew attempting to reach the ice. Everyone made it here safely and with all baggage on board. We have a great group of climbers including; Martin Grieder (Switzerland), SimonIrish (New York), Michael Hsu (California), and Serge Massad (Ontario). The guides are Todd and Winslow Passey (Utah).
We had our logistical meeting this morning with ALE (Antarctica Logistics Expiditions), the company that carries us all down to this mystical continent. It included a very interesting slide show, instructions of do´s and don´ts (such as lying on the runway to take a photo as a plane fly´s in), and tea and biscuits to wash it down.
Unfortunately, the weather is not cooperating, and we have flight delays. There is a group ahead of us waiting to fly in as well. It has been snowing in Patriot Hills, dumping 20-30cm of fresh snow on the runway, that must be cleared before landing. This process takes 36hr. after the wind stops to remove the snow. Most groups have retreated from high camp, and are hunkering down at base camp.
With a forecaster predicting the weather for ALE this season, they have given us a 72hr. release of check in responsibilities. This means we do not have to stay in Punta Arenas, so we are arranging a trip out to Torres Del Paine National Park. We hope to get in a hike and a few good views of the towering granite peaks and the picturesque glacial lakes.
Everyone says hello to their friends and family! Go Navy! (from Michael)!! We´ll keep you posted, but it does not look like we can fly until Thursday at the earliest.