The Great Mystery 2003 by Tom Holzel

Mt Everest

On June 8th, 1924, two British climbers—Mallory & Irvine--were spotted from below clambering over one of the major remaining obstacles of their route. The summit of Mt. Everest was only a few hours away. Swirling mists closed in and they were never seen again. Their disappearance left unanswered a question that has haunted mountaineers ever since: Had they reached the top? Even Sir Edmund Hillary—the first to certainly reach the top (and to return)—looked for signs of any possible predecessors.

Early Everesters didn’t think so. Subsequent Pre WWII expeditions during better weather and with greater resources were thwarted by the immensity of the challenge. But one thing was left out of the early pessimistic assessments—the effect of the controversial use by the two climbers of “artificial” breathing oxygen. Many contemporaries felt its use was unsporting, and angrily discounted evidence to show that climbing speeds easily doubled with its use.

The next expedition, that of 1933, retraced Mallory & Irvine’s steps and discovered one of their ice axes some 250 yards from the First Step obstacle. For decades, that was the only other clue as to their fate. In the early 1970’s I studied the best available topographic maps of Mt. Everest, and notice that the site of the ice ax lay above a large snow terrace. Would a falling climber come to rest on the “8200m Snow Terrace”? And if so, would the cameras each of them was known to be carrying, still hold the answer of how high they got? After extensive tests, Eastman Kodak thought “fully printable images” could be obtained if the camera was found intact.

The north side of Mt. Everest lies in Tibet, which was closed to foreigners after WWII. In 1960, the Chinese, who now controlled the country, launched a large expedition via the Mallory & Irvine route, and apparently succeeded in reaching the summit. There was no news of any clues. It was only in 1979 that a rumor wafted through the mountaineering ether that the secretive Japanese Alpine Club had obtained the first permission to make another attempt.

After asking them to be on the lookout for any clues on the 8200m Snow Terrace, the JAC wrote back to reveal an astounding new clue: A Chinese porter on the massive 1975 Chinese Mt. Everest expedition described finding an “English dead” on the North Face at 8100m. When he touched the body, the clothing “danced in the wind.” The day after giving the Japanese climbing leader his revelation, Wang Hung-bao died in an avalanche! Given the location at the bottom of the 8200 Snow Terrace right below the ice ax site—it could only be Mallory or Irvine.

I mounted an expedition in 1986 to search the terrace for possible clues. The expedition was snowed out and we returned empty handed—except for one new clue. Meeting with the tent-mate of the Chinese porter Wang, we learned that—in spite of official Chinese denials, yes, Wang had told his fellow climbers about discovering “a foreign mountaineer.”

The next break came with the Eric Simonson’s fabulously successful expedition of 1999. Using a search protocol developed by Everest historian Jochen Hemmleb, climber Conrad Anker wandered out from the 8100 Chinese bivouac and stumbled onto the body of George Mallory. This sensational discovery was trumpeted in newspaper headlines around the world. In spite of rope trauma mottling around Mallory’s waist indicating that they fell together, a through search of the body and surrounding terrain revealed no sign or Irvine—and no sign of a camera.

Many theories arose about what Irvine’s fate may have been since that historic discovery. The two most likely possibilities are that Irvine continued his fall over the edge of the 8200m Snow Terrace, or that Irvine only fell a short distance before the rope broke and, mortally injured, struggled on back to their highest camp—which he did not reach. One additional clue was that the two climbers left much important climbing gear (flares, lamps) in their high tent, to save weight and allow a quick dash to the summit. This suggests that only a single camera was taken, as well. This would undoubtedly have been carried by Irvine—a prolific photographer, and therefore in a position to take a snapshot of Mallory standing at their highest point, holding up his custom-made 30,000-ft altimeter.

But where was Irvine and his camera to be found? A reasonably widespread search of the ice ax fall-line turned up nothing. Over the intervening years, a number of North Face climbers have reported a number of tantalizing clues. Some acute photo analysis of random images taken on the North Face, added additional information. One of the 1960’s Chinese climbers described spotting a body lying wrapped up in a what appeared to be a sleeping bag—but off-route in a rather unusual location.

For the past 2-3 years, EverestNews.com has been quietly compiling other reports, and organizing them for relevance and probability. A few months ago, the newest information caused this accumulation of facts to reach a critical mass. Now it could be said with almost certainty: Irvine had been sighted. It appears EverestNews.com are going to try to pull this off and go get the camera…

THE MYSTERY OF MALLORY’S WATCH

Mallory and Irvine sleuths continue to debate the issue of the watch found on Mallory, and what it tells about the time of their accident.

May 16, 1999 – 26,500’, Everest North Face

Stopping to enjoy the view from over 26,000 feet I watched Andy Politz descend into the darkness. He grabbed a bright orange fixed line beneath his arm and loped down the face, facing forward, quickly fading from view. Snow fell gently. A hazy horizon made me feel like I was walking on clouds. Everest’s north face was as beautiful as I’d imagined it. However, on this night it felt peaceful, a safe place to relax and take it all in.

Late in the afternoon of May 16, 1999 Andy and I returned to the site where George Leigh Mallory had come to rest 75 years before. My oxygen tank had been off for two or three hours while we searched in vain for the camera. The sun set as we read Mallory’s eulogy, his body now buried in the best grave we could offer him. While everything seemed clear at the time I began to feel as if some of the particulars of the day were starting to fade from my memory.

Shortly after arriving at the site Andy powered up the metal detector. We hoped it could do what our eyes couldn’t: pick up the location of Mallory’s camera. I crawled around on my hands and knees going after anything that made the metal detector blip: a metal clasp beneath Mallory’s chin held his leather helmet tight; hobnails on his boot; and, a broken watch inside his pocket.

The minute and second hands had broken off. The hour hand remained, though, stuck forever between one and two. Could it be that Mallory and Irvine fell sometime between one and two? Highly doubtful. His pocket was perfectly clean, not a shard of glass to be found. It obviously meant that the watch was broken, cleaned of its glass, then placed inside Mallory’s pocket. Curiously, the watch was rusty. Melted snow or sweat had rusted the watch.

Photo was taken at Camp 5, May 17, 1999 by Thom Pollard. Andy Politz is holding the watch. He stashed it away shortly after. The hour hand was never seen again. copyright©Thom Pollard

Let it be known that the watch tells nothing more than this: his watch broke before his fateful accident. At the time his watch broke Mallory was in good enough condition to take it off and stow it in his pocket. Early on the morning of May 17 I photographed Andy’s hand holding the watch with the hour hand still affixed. Somewhere between there and Advanced Base Camp the hour hand fell off, lost forever amidst the detritus of Everest lore.

IN CLOSING: Why dispel one subject for M&I sleuths without adding another? In the article Face To Face With George Leigh Mallory, could it be the hole in his forehead was the ‘hole in his cheek’ of an ‘old English dead’ that Chinese climber Wang Hong-bao spoke about in 1975?

Ascent Routes on Everest

1.) May 29, 1953: First Summit:
Tenzing Norgay & Sir Edmund Percival Hillary (New Zealand) via the South-East Ridge Route. (Western Cwm, Lhotse face to the South-East ridge.) A picture of the route ishere.

2.) May 25, 1960:
Chinese team makes first Summit of Everest via the North Ridge.

3.) May 22, 1963:
The first ascent of the Everest West Ridge, actually the West Ridge/North Face by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein. Also the first traverse as they descended the South East Ridge/ South Col.

4.) September 24, 1975:
Dougal Haston and Doug Scott Summit via the South west face.

5.) May 13, 1979:
Andrej Stremfelj and Jernej Zaplotnik reached the Summit via the true West ridge and descend via the Hornbein Couloir.

6.) May 10, 1980:
Tsuneoh Shigehiro and Takashi Ozaki made the first full ascent of the North Face (Japanese Couloir to the Hornbein Couloir) of Everest.

7.) May 19, 1980:
Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok followed the South Pillar on on the right hand edge of the Southwest Face.

8.) August 20, 1980: Solo:
Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

9.) May 4, 1982:
11 Russia climbers reached the Summit via the South West Pillar left of the Great Central Gully on the Southwest Face.

10.) October 8, 1983:
Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or Kangshung face.

11.) October 3, 1984:
Australians Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the North Couloir (North Face to Norton Couloir) without bottled oxygen.

12.) May 20, 1986:
Canadian Sharon Wood became the first North American woman to Summit Everest and climbed the new route of the west Shoulder from the Rongbuk Glacier and continued on to the Summit via the Hornbein Couloir.

13.) May 12, 1988:
British Stephen Venables, climbed a line to the left of the 1983 Kangshung Face route. Actually the East Face-South Col-SE Ridge. Venables was the only member of the expedition to reach the Summit.

14.) May 11th, 1995:
The first ascent of the Northeast Ridge on May 11th, completed by Kiyoshi Furuno (Japan), Shigeki Imoto (Japan), Dawa Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, and Nima Sherpa.

15.) May 20, 1996:
The first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov.

Mt. Everest 2006: FANTASY INTO REALITY

Fantasy Ridge is the last major unclimbed ridge of Mt. Everest. Although there have been more than two thousand summits of Everest, no summit was ever achieved by way of Fantasy Ridge. Furthermore, less than a handful of expeditions have succeeded on the Kangshung side of the mountain.
The ridge presents a formidable challenge: first, because of the lack of any precise information regarding its geography; second, lack of evaluation of the make up of rock and snow; and third, the unknownbut ever-present danger of avalanche. The ridge is also exposed to the full strength of morning sun which normally amplifies the danger of falling rock and melting ice which produces avalanches.
Fantasy Ridge was named by George Leigh Mallory. It is thought that the name refers to the impossible difficulty of the terrain and the belief that a successful traverse exists only in “fantasy.” Also referred to as East Ridge due to its position in relation to Mt. Everest, the name Fantasy Ridge stuck. The ridge presents an awkward, long, almost horizontal pitch with cornice ridges often on both sides. Attacking the ridge will require a new, radical approach, including the possibility of climbing early mornings and at night when the sun is less of a factor. The ascent is a combination of alpine and expedition style. The latter style will be employed as insurance against the need for evacuation, either for injury or because further progress is impossible.
Previous attempts by classical approach from Kharta had the problem of the two week trek to base camp during which time expeditions faced delay and exhaustion.
Our approach has never been considered.
Second half of Fantasy Ridge: Crevasses were observed at this altitude but an alpine style will be almost certain the choice of ascent.
Acknowledging the reality of an almost impossible rescue evacuation in case of serious injury, ropes will be necessary to leave behind an exit strategy. Upon reaching the bottom of the ridge, a decision will be made based on the ground snow and ice conditions. An early start of the expedition gives a better chance of avoiding avalanches and falling rock by climbing in colder temperatures. On the other hand, the colder temperatures are more likely to produce frostbite and prolonged exposure. Conditions will be carefully weighed before we choose the lesser evil. From this point on there will be little permanent fixed rope. Traveling light and fast will be the goal.
As formidable as it may seem, the East Ridge ends on the Northeast Ridge at 7800 meters, more than 1000 meters below the summit of Mt Everest. From there the notorious Pinnacles will have to be overcome. This presents a classic, highly technical high altitude mountaineering climb. At that time the mountain conditions, the time left in the expedition and our over all physical and mental condition will determine how we will proceed for the summit

Everest : Teenager to attempt Everest

News of another teenager aiming to be youngest (non Sherpa) to climb Everest arrived this week. Apparently his name is Adam Lee from the UK. He is currently 16 and from the UK.
The last teenager (non Sherpa ) almost died attempting Everest from the North side. While this teenager is apparently is hoping to raise money for Cynthia Spencer or Macmillan cancer support, it bring up the question of who is responsible again if he dies.
Is a person under 18 old enough to really know the danger of climbing a mountain such as Everest? If he dies does the responsibility rest with the guide? the parents? the chi

Peter Hillary Motivational Speaker

PETER HILLARY in brief

·25 years experience in extreme risk environments

·Climbed Mt. Everest twice; most recently in 2002 for a National Geographic Documentary

·Forged a new route across Antarctica to the South Pole

·First to traverse the length of the Himalayas

·Assists his father Sir Edmund Hillary in raising funds for the people of Nepal

·Appeared on The Late Show with David Letterman and with Diane Sawyer on Good Morning America

·In 2003: celebrating the 50th Anniversary of his father’s historic first climb of Mt Everest:

Author of five books with his latest – In the Ghost Country – due for release in May 2003

Speaking Topics: Hillary focuses on developing skills: seeing excitement in uncertainty, balancing risk with caution, and achieving extraordinary goals through preparation and perseverance.

· Climb Your Own Everest

· To the Ends of the Earth

· K2: Survive... and Thrive

· Giving Something Back

Traveling from California

PETER HILLARY: PRESENTATIONS

CLIMB YOUR OWN EVEREST

Hillary’s 10 Steps to the Summit of the World

1. Nothing ventured; nothing gained

2. Challenge = uncertainty = excitement

3. Fear makes you focus

4. Passion gives you confidence

5. Fun makes for a great team

6. Make sure you have more than one thing to live for

7. Resist the “flock factor”

8. “You are all you have”

9. Great challenges result in powerful experiences

10. A View from the Summit..to new horizons

This is an inspirational presentation with many entertaining stories, woven around the principles that helped put the first father and son on top of the world. Ideal as a motivational address or as an after-dinner speech.

TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH

An extraordinary 15-year quest that led Peter Hillary to the North Pole, the South Pole, and the summit of Everest: The Dream, The Drive and the Dedication to the Goal.

· Turning dreams into reality

· Persistence and Perseverance

· The importance of the People Factor

· Dealing with tension and conflict in the team

· Living outside your comfort zone for long periods of time

· Seeking out and rejoicing in the beauty of our world

· Setting new goals once you’ve achieved the dream.

This is a keynote address that’s inspirational and entertaining. It’s about goal-setting, problem solving and never losing sight of where you want to go.

K2 CRISIS: SURVIVE … AND THRIVE

A story of those who died - and those who survived - on K2, the world’s most savage mountain. Because surviving is the name of the game.

· The secrets of surviving against the odds

· Listening to your inner wisdom

· Balancing risk with caution

· Judging the situation for yourself

· Becoming truly self-reliant

· Learning from your mistakes

· Life is the story of your challenges and what you learned from them.

It doesn’t matter whether it is surviving a storm on a mountain or getting your team safely through a crisis; if you survive, you live to play another day, and you will be all the stronger for the experience. This is a very powerful story that will leave your audience breathless.

PETER HILLARY

Nearly 50 years on, and in celebration of his father’s historic first ascent of Mt Everest, Peter Hillary has climbed for the second time to the summit of the world’s highest mountain. When Peter first summitted Mt Everest in 1990, he and his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, became the first father and son to have accomplished this pinnacle of adventuring achievement. In January 1999, 42 years after Sir Edmund’s epic Antarctic journey, they did it again; this time becoming the first father and son to have reached the South Pole overland from the coast and both of them establishing new routes to the South Pole. These are but two highlights in what has been a lifetime of high adventure.

Expeditions:

· Mountaineering expeditions include Everest West Ridge, Makalu West Pillar, Mt Vinson, Aconcagua, Lhotse, Amadablam and Carstenz Pyramid. In all, Peter Hillary has been on 38 expeditions and alpine seasons.

· Surviving the storm on K2: In 1995 eight climbers were headed for the summit of this, one of the world’s most treacherous mountains. Peter turned away 1200 feet/400m from the summit in the ‘bottle-neck’ just in time to retreat as a horrifying storm hit the mountain, taking the lives of all seven of his colleagues, including British climber Alison Hargreaves.

· Landing small aircraft at the North Pole with Sir Edmund and astronaut Neil Armstrong.

· First ski descent of Mt Aspiring: the Matterhorn of the Southern Hemisphere.

· First Across the Roof of the World: The first high-altitude traverse of the Himalayan Range, 1981: a 3000 mile/5000 kms route from Mt Kanchenjunga in Sikkim through Nepal and India to K2 in Pakistan. The trio of Graeme Dingle, Chewang Tashi and Peter averaged over 13,000 feet/4000 meters altitude for the 10 months of the expedition.

· From the ‘Ocean to the Sky’: jetboating up the sacred Ganges river with his father in 1977. They drove up the river from the Sundarbunds in the Bay of Bengal to high in the Himalayas near Badrinath where they made first ascents of Mounts Nar Parbat and Akash Parbat.

· Shark frenzies in the Coral Sea: feeding and filming sharks with Ron and Valerie Taylor at the Osprey Reef 200 kms off the north Queensland coast.

Business: Peter is an adventure travel operator and guide specialising in the Himalayas and Antarctica. He guided Qantas CEO James Strong on Mt Vinson in Antarctica and entrepreneur Dick Smith up Carstenz Pyramid in Irian Jaya. He holds a commercial pilot’s license for fixed wing aircraft. He also works as a professional public speaker and writer. He is the author of four mountaineering books and one children’s book with a sixth book due for publication in New York in May 2003; he writes magazine articles, works on outdoor equipment design and marketing for Fairydown Adventure, the same company that equipped his father and Tenzing in 1953. He has worked on numerous television documentaries including two for National Geographic Television in Washington DC.

Media: Peter has worked extensively with television including interviews on Good Morning America and The Late Show with David Letterman, numerous major radio programs and print media such as the New York Times.

Philanthropy: Peter is a member of the Himalayan Trust, an organisation founded by his father to assist the local people of the Mount Everest region, where they have built and run 42 schools, hospitals and medical clinics. Since 1992, Peter has taken over 1000 teenagers to assist with construction work on some of the Himalayan Trust hospitals and schools and other community projects.

Television and Radio Involvements

· National Geographic documentary celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the climbing of Mt Everest, to be aired in May 2003.

· The Late Show with David Letterman – In-studio interview in New York with David Letterman

· Good Morning America – Interview with Diane Sawyer, live via satellite from Scott Base, Antarctica

· Up Close and Personal – Interview with Ray Martin, Channel Nine, Australia

· “West Matukituki Ramble: Trekking and Climbing in New Zealand's South Island”, Parts One and Two produced by Anyplace Wild for PBS

· “Sons of the Mountaineers: Trekking and Climbing in New Zealand”, Parts One and Two, part of the series Anyplace Wild produced by Environmental Recreation Group, Inc in Camden, Maine, aired in most states of the US on PBS during mid 1998

· Everest Expedition video for the Australian Wool Corporation

· The "Escape" programme for Channel 7, Australia, in 1987 and '88, as a programme presenter

· The Everest Expedition film, 1987

· The Rimo Expedition film, 1986

· "India, a personal encounter", 1986

· Filming sharks on the Great Barrier Reef, 1985.

· "Return to Everest" with the National Geographic, 1980 and 1983.

· "From the Ocean to the Sky" with Sir Edmund Hillary, 1977

· The Kaipo Wall with Sir Edmund Hillary, 1974

· Numerous other minor documentary films and promotional films; and countless interviews for television and radio in the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom, including the BBC, NHK and Associated Press.

Recent Presentations: Cisco; Lucent Technologies; Worcester Foundation, Massachusetts; Mars Confectionery; L.G Philips; Golden Key Society; Qantas Chief Executive’s Club; NZ Tourism Foundation in Germany;

Hauser Foundation, Germany; YPO Melbourne; and numerous other appearances for corporations such as IBM, McDonalds, Caltex, Mobil, Shell, The Federal Group, KPMG, Wang, Compaq, Tower, AMP, Andersen’s Consulting, IMAX, Iridium, Telecom, Telstra, and several insurance and financial companies.

Books and Publications

A sunny day in the Himalayas ... Hodder & Stoughton

First across the roof of the World Hodder & Stoughton

Two Generations (with Sir Edmund Hillary) Hodder & Stoughton

Rimo: Mountain on the Silk Road Hodder & Stoughton

Bridgit was bored [children's story] Hodder & Stoughton

In the Name of the Father Qantas Inflight Magazine, 1995

Everest is mighty, we are fragile New York Times, 25May, 1996

IN THE GHOST COUNTRY A Lifetime Spent on the Edge By Peter Hillary and John E. Elder See here for more on this book

Countless other newspaper and magazine articles.

Outdoor Equipment involvements

(includes design, field-testing and promotion)

· Arthur Ellis & Co., Christchurch, New Zealand

· American Recreation Products, St Louis, Missouri, USA

Biographical Information

Peter Hillary was born in Auckland in 1954. He is the son of Sir Edmund and Lady Louise Hillary. He is married and has four children.

Alpine Ascents: 2007-2008 Mount Vinson Expedition Update

December 18, 2007 : Hi this is Winslow calling in the Vinson climbing team. Today is Tuesday and we are heading back to Punta Arenas. The other team that was ahead of us flew out today so we are hoping that the weather will hold and we will be able to fly out tomorrow morning. We had a beautiful foray up to the Torres del Paine National Park, we really lucked out with the weather and had a beautiful hiking day yesterday. We hiked five miles or so up to this beautiful glacial lake just below the Torres Mountains and had great weather and great views all day. A lot of the hike was along side a river, with lots of ups and downs, we also had to hike up a steep bolder field to get up to the lake and some people took a swim when we got up there. We had a nice lunch then we came back down to our little recurso that we are staying in. This morning we visited two different water falls and we also saw a family of fox with three babies and we were able to watch them play for a little while. It has been a great visit up here to the park and we are keeping our fingers crossed that we are going to be able to fly out tomorrow. Thanks for tuning in and we will keep you posted. Ciao.

December 17, 2007 : Hola, this is Winslow calling in for the Mount Vinson crew. We are in the Torres Paine National Park. We’re enjoying taking a few days off from being able to leave with our weather forecast as it is. They gave us a three day leave so we’re here in the park enjoying that. Yesterday we drove up and saw many of the park’s wildlife. We saw condors, guanacos, flamingos, and various other birds along the way. We stopped and had lunch in a town called Puerto Natales, which is on a large very beautiful lake. We had some great seafood there and just enjoyed the trip up. We’re staying in Refugio, which is also very nice. We’re taking a four hour hike today to a lake at the base of the Torres Paine Mountain. Everyone is doing great. We’re still working on a team name. We’ll get back to you with that. Thanks for tuning in. We’ll let you know how our arctic experience is going.

December 15, 2007 : Hello from Punta Arenas from the first Alpine Ascents crew attempting to reach the ice. Everyone made it here safely and with all baggage on board. We have a great group of climbers including; Martin Grieder (Switzerland), SimonIrish (New York), Michael Hsu (California), and Serge Massad (Ontario). The guides are Todd and Winslow Passey (Utah).

We had our logistical meeting this morning with ALE (Antarctica Logistics Expiditions), the company that carries us all down to this mystical continent. It included a very interesting slide show, instructions of do´s and don´ts (such as lying on the runway to take a photo as a plane fly´s in), and tea and biscuits to wash it down.

Unfortunately, the weather is not cooperating, and we have flight delays. There is a group ahead of us waiting to fly in as well. It has been snowing in Patriot Hills, dumping 20-30cm of fresh snow on the runway, that must be cleared before landing. This process takes 36hr. after the wind stops to remove the snow. Most groups have retreated from high camp, and are hunkering down at base camp.

With a forecaster predicting the weather for ALE this season, they have given us a 72hr. release of check in responsibilities. This means we do not have to stay in Punta Arenas, so we are arranging a trip out to Torres Del Paine National Park. We hope to get in a hike and a few good views of the towering granite peaks and the picturesque glacial lakes.

Everyone says hello to their friends and family! Go Navy! (from Michael)!! We´ll keep you posted, but it does not look like we can fly until Thursday at the earliest.

Everest Dream Treks (5)

The home of Sherpa community of Nepal is known as Solu-Khumbu. All famous mountaineer right from Sherpa Tenging Norgey to all record holder summiters Like late Babu Chiri Sherpa came from Khumbu region. Sherpa belongs to Nyingma-pa Tiibetan Buddhist sect. They practice their own Buddhist tradition and custom, which their ancestors brought from Tibet. The area above Jorsale, about 113 sq. km is under the protection of National Park. There are blue pine, fir and juniper forest in the lower elevation and, birch and rhododendron forest in between 3300m to 4000m. Musk deer, Himalayan Thar and serow are commonly found. There is panoramic view of the Himalayan range all the way from Gaurishanker to Mt. Makalu. The view of Amadablam is photogenic.Everest is a dream for all the trekkers. More and more comfortable lodges are available on the trekking trail with good toilet facilities. Almost all the lodges/tea houses do have electricity (and there are places where you can re-charge digital cameras and batteries). At higher altitides the communal areas are lit with paraffin lamps.

1 . Everest Escape - 12 days (1

This trek is introduction to Everest. The trek starts at Lukla (2805m) with an easy walk to Phakding. The trail to Everest base camp gradually ascends to Namchebazar (3445m). After an overnight stay at Namche the trail descend to the Dudh Koshi river and make steep ascend to Thyangbohce (3866m). The trail from the monastery gradually descends to the river and continues to the open valley at Dingboche (4299m). Retrace the trail back to Lukla. The highlight of the short trek is sherpa culture and very close to high mountain.
2.Everest Base Camp Trek-18 days (1)

This is quick escape to the base camp of Everest. Start trek at Lukla (2805m); walk through Namche bazar (3445m), Thyangbohce (3866m), Pheriche and Lobouje (4930m). Visit Kalapattar and if possible base camp before returning back to Lukla. Total duration includes acclimatization days at Namche Bazar and Pheriche. The highest elevation reached is 5183m at Kalapattar.

3 . Classic Everest Base camp Trek - 26 days (1)

You follow original route used by first Everest expedition that starts from Jiri to the base camp of Mt. Everest. En-route you come across wide valley at Bhandar and Sherpa settlements at Junbesi. Cross the pass at Takshindu (3048m), there is a Buddhist monastery. Continue the journey to Phakding and enter into the home of Sherpa people perched in the nook and corner of the valleys in Khumbu. Visit village at Thame (3811m) and Khumjung. Stop overnight at Namchebazar and Thayngboche on the way to base camp. As you approach base camp you stop overnight at a remote settlement at Dingboche and Lobouje. From Lobouje make a day trek to Kalapattar to see great view of Mt.Everest. Retrace the trail back to Lukla. The trek ends with flight to Kathmandu.

4 . Everest Base camp and Gokyo - 22 days (1)

Fly in and Fly out from Lukla Duration – Trek days - 18 Trip Grading- Strenuous This is a great trek that takes you to the high valleys of the Khumbu and the villages,monasteries. You fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and follow the Dudh Kosi valley up to Namche. You will spent few days for acclimatization. Visit Khumjung for incredible views of Kantega and Thamserku and the Nuptse-Lhotse wall with Everest rearing above. Trek further to Luza and to Gokyo.From Gokyo, you willjoin the main trail to Everest Base Camp. This route provides a magnificent approach to the Khumbu glacier with unbelievable vistas of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.

5 . Mera Peak and Amphulaptsa (1)

The route from Lukla follows trail made by local yak herders; there are small villages, stone huts and high pasture animal’s shades until Khare. The trail is pretty well defined though this is off the beaten path. In winter people and animals do not stay in these high regions. So local people and trekkers would very much less frequent the area through out the trek. Walk slowly and gradually to higher elevation. In the schedule walk in is done slowly and extra day for acclimatization days at Khare is planned before climbing to Mera la (5335m). Visit Hinku Nup glacier to the base of Kantega or help carry some food and equipment to high camp at Mera la. The day at Khare can be used to visit Hinku Nup glacier to the base camp of Kantega. Or, help carry some food and necessary equipment to Merla La. Usually we set up high camp above Mera la (pass) to help negotiate crevasses early in the morning, so next day climb would be easier. Though high camp may not be necessary, but it can only be decided on the site. Mera peak has twin summit. The view from the summit towards the high mountain peaks is the best anywhere

Highway construction to the Mount Everest on hold

Environmental experts must conduct a study and give their approval before workers can build a planned paved road up to the Mount Everest base camp, a Tibet government official said Saturday. The new highway was to be a major route for tourists and mountaineers, and officials have praised it as a way to make life easier for locals.In April, organizers for the Beijing Summer Olympics announced ambitious plans for the longest torch relay in Olympic history — an 85,000-mile, 130-day route that would cross five continents and reach the 29,035-foot summit of Everest, the world's highest peak.

China Tests Mt. Everest Cell Station

China Mobile's new station on Mount Everest and two other high-altitude China Mobile stations, one at 17,060 feet and the other at 19,095 feet, are to provide cell phone service along the entire Mount Everest climbing route. It is not known whether the two other stations operate on a continuous basis

China's largest cell phone service provider successfully tested a transmission station on Mount Everest on Tuesday, making it possible for people in the area for next year's Olympic torch relay to make calls, a state news agency reported.
China Mobile had to hire yaks and porters to transport equipment up to the station at an altitude of 21,325 feet, the Xinhua News Agency said.
Aside from the physical challenge of climbing the mountain, which straddles the border of Nepal and Chinese-controlled Tibet, the torch had to be designed to burn in bad weather, low pressure and high altitude.
The new station and two other high-altitude China Mobile stations, one at 17,060 feet and the other at 19,095 feet, are to provide cell phone service along the entire Mount Everest climbing route, Xinhua said. It was not known whether the two other stations operate on a continuous basis.
Immediately after testing it, workers began packing away the station for the winter, Xinhua said. It will be reassembled for the Olympic torch relay next summer, when the flame is to be carried to Everest's 29,035-foot summit.
A worker at the station called China Mobile general manager Wang Jianzhou Tuesday afternoon and had a clear signal, Xinhua quoted an unnamed company spokesman as saying.
The construction was "incredibly difficult" because the oxygen level was only 38 percent of what it is at sea level, the spokesman said.
An official with Tibet Mobile, the Tibetan subsidiary of China Mobile, said the station would operate based on the needs of mountaineers and scientists, Xinhua reported.
Phones rang unanswered at China Mobile's headquarters in Beijing on Tuesday evening. The Lhasa office of China Mobile did not have a listed telephone number.
Organizers of the Beijing Games plan to stage the longest torch relay in Olympic history on an 85,000-mile, 130-day route across five continents.
While Beijing hopes the feat will impress the world, groups critical of China's often harsh 57-year rule over Tibet have decried the torch route as a stunt meant to lend legitimacy to Chinese control.

Everest West Ridge and Traverse:

The Bulgarian National Everest Expedition in 1984 consisted of Avram Avramov (leader), Christo Prodanov (deputy leader), Ognyan Baldjiski, Dr. Stayko Kulaksazov, Stefan Kaloyanov, Metodi Savov, Milan Ognyanov, Dimitar Bardarev, Slavi Dermendjiev, Trifon Djambazov, Kantcho Dolapchiev, Kiril Doskov, Todor Grigorov, Lyubomir Iliev, Georgi Imov, Kostas Kanidis, Zapryan Khorozov, Nikolay Petkov, Stamen Stanimirov, Dinko Tomov, Petko Totev, Ivan Valtchev, Doychin Vasilev, Lyudmil Yankov. The whole team reached Base Camp on March 18. A particularly dry winter with little snow eased the work of establishing camps and eliminated avalanche danger.

Camp 1 was established at 6050 meters on March 21. Camp 2 at 6770 meters on March 27 and Camp 3 at 7170 meters on April 3. Because of gale winds, they dug a snow cave large enough for 15 climbers at Camp 2 and for 6 climbers at Camp 3. After some days of bad weather, on April 5, two teams of seven Bulgarians and seven Sherpas set out. On April 18 and Sherpa Chowang Ringie established Camp 4 at 7520 meters. On the following day at 2:30 P. M. they got to the site of Camp 5 at 8120 meters and set up camp. Djambazov, Kanidis and Tomov completed establishment of Camp 4 and remained there to sleep
April 20 was splendid but cold.
At 5:45 A. M. Prodanov and Ringie started for the summit without oxygen The Sherpa felt the technical difficulties were too great and returned to Camp 4. Prodanov, who had many fine solo climbs, including Lhotse (April 30, 1981) continued alone. At 11:10 he radioed Base Camp and said he was at 8500 meters.

At 6:10 P.M. he called a second time to announce that he had reached the summit where he found a pyramid of empty oxygen bottles left by the Soviet mountaineers and the red flag. He tore some small fragments off the flag and like the first Russian climbers, he left his 8-mm camera to be used by the teams who would climb later to the summit.

He was the sixth man to climb Everest solo [depending on how one defines solo], the 13th without oxygen and the eight to climb the west ridge (59 ascent, 159th climber on the top). He remained on the summit for a half hour and began the descent down the west ridge proper, which had not been done before. At 9:10 P. M. he contacted Base Camp and said he would bivouac because of darkness. The following day, April 21, a rescue began. Yankov reached 8500 meters at nine P.M. but did not find any trace of Prodanov. Until 5:30 P. M. that same day Prodanov had voice contact with Base Camp although his voice was weak and the words could not be understood. At 7:45, a click of the switch of his walkie-talkie was recorder for the last time. No sign of him was ever heard again. Meanwhile the weather worsened. Yankov had to spend a sleepless night at 8400 meters but returned safe to Base Camp. On the following days bad weather kept the climbers in their tents.

On May 1 in sunny weather a new attack began. Camps 4 and 5 had been destroyed but were reestablished On May 8 Savov and Valtchev started at 3:20 A.M. from Camp 5 with oxygen, finding a foot-and-a-half of new snow in the gullies. In the afternoon the summit had begun to smoke, a sign of worsening weather. At 5:15 they were on the summit (60 ascent, 160 and 161 climber in hierarchy). After 23 minutes they began to descend the southeast ridge. Two hours later, at 8700 meters, they decided to bivouac. On May 9 Doskov and Petkov left Camp 5 and in the record time 7 hours 38 minutes were on the summit (62 ascent, 162 and 163 in hierarchy). They took Prodanov’s camera and the Soviet flag and hastened to descend the southeast ridge. Soon they met a member of the Indian Mount Everest Expedition, Phu Dorje, who climbed alone to the top after the two Sherpas who accompanied him quit. They then met Savov and later Valtchev and with the help of Doskov and Petkov, the two climbers who had bivouacked succeeded in reaching the South Col

Everest 2008: Sky Dive Everest

Nigel Gifford of High and Wild is planning to take groups of people to skydive in front of Mount Everest; solo, 4-way and tandem. They will be provided with high altitude gear and oxygen to jump at the highest DZ in the world. The drop zone will be set up at 12,350ft and the jumps will take place from 29,035ft out of a Porter. Drop zone transport will be an Equirrel B3 helicopter and yaks with yak man.

The well-experienced Brits involved in this once in a lifetime experience are Leo Dickinson, Andy Montriou (tandem), Dave Wood (DZ control) and Ben Wood (camera). Organiser slots are available with a group of nine people. The trip can also be extended to include a trek to Everest base camp. Manifest is available through the website, slots are still available but filling up fast.

Everest from the South Side in Nepal



Full size picture

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest. Base camp is located at 17,500 feet. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit).

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall. This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.

The Icefall is in constant motion. It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below. This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing. The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters
After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet. Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters
As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)
To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)
As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet. Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone." The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time. Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)
Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.